Its probably not absolutely necessary to put fish paper there, but I did. Can’t ever be too safe. I agree with the statement that there could be a bit more solder, especially on lower right joint but tbh it looks good to me.
4 Likes
Fuck that’s neat. Okay I’ll put the paper on the positive side
i want a wazer so bad.
this is why i still buy rolls and not pre-cuts.
3 Likes
yup!!!
1 Like
This ^
Also you could probably just round the corners off with the laser no? Maybe instead of cutting a roll of nickel, a plate of it? I can see that it’s probably really wasteful and so it might not a super viable option.
what fishpaper do you guys think is best? where do you buy it?
2 Likes
I need help I’ve got some money for a real enclosure (pelican ruck R40 case for my flipshit dual 6.6) and solder wire but i’m thinking should I also get some 20 to 30 AWG silicone wire for future projects, I already have black/red 10AWG wire. If I should get some what size (that is pretty much universal) should I go with ?
Universal for what purpose? 
2 Likes
I like to keep 8, 10, 12, 14, 18, 22 and 26
3 Likes
Leads for p groups on a BMS? 24 is pretty standard.
Pack wires? 10 if you are in kinda nuts, 12 is pretty reasonable for most pack leads and serial connections.
8awg sucks to work with.
4 Likes
@glyphiks mostly for DIY stuff
and now another battery pack in line of sight lol.
i’ll go with 24 for now and buy more of bigger/smaller when I get more money (also might be usefull in my future work toolbox lol)
thanks for the help 
yup… that assembly exudes weirdness on so many levels
2 Likes
Geometry is a total bitch, there a bulkhead in the middle of the pack
1 Like
i’m beginning to loose faith with your tetris skillz
2 Likes
unfortunate deck design…
i have ideas
the first one is pitching out that BMS
4 Likes
Might have been able to put the two cells end-to-end (pos-to-pos or neg-to-neg) up at the top there…
But yeah, unfortunate geometry.
2 Likes