Yes for sure. I also developed an emergency warp core ejection sequence. I’m throwing the whole thing out the window if I see 
spark, smoke, short etc.
I figure I got about 5 seconds with these which is all the time I need.
I figure I got about 5 seconds with these which is all the time I need.
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I was thinking of getting something like this
In conjunction with fire extinguisher and bucket-o-sand for possible emergencies.
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i also looked at that as well.
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Anyone have experience with metroboards batteries? They are on sale right now, and was wondering how easy it would be to change out the bms. They have a 30a bms on their 10s8p.
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They idea sounds great on paper but the problem is when battery tries to vent due to over pressure. If positive tab is potted, you just blocked venting port and in case of fail battery wont be able to went and will explode like a firecracker. Effectively you decreased battery cooling capability and removed battery protection that triggers due too high temperature.
Maybe a good alternative is to pot everything except tabs (especially positive). This also makes it easier to work and repair battery. You could also use thermal potting for better heat transfer.
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Hey iv’e used nickel plated steel to weld some of my batterys and wanted to use pure nickel instead. I have a sunkko 709A spotwelder (220V) and it doesn’t weld the nickel very well. the thickness i use is 0.15mm and the pulselength is set to 8 and the current to max. I’m using the pen and pedal to weld. Can anyone share their Sunkko 709A settings or give some advise?
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Urgent question! (Have a flight to catch and taking the spot welder with me, making a battery for my friend)
Am using the KWeld spot-welder, welding with 0.15mm nickel. I found that 25J provides good results, but every now and then only 1 of the spots where I hold the electrodes gets welded. I’m holding them quite firmly against the nickel, so I don’t think it would be a pressure difference.
(Just ignore the small strip on the right of the cell, its weld turned out good. I did not weld across strips lol)
Also, the tip of the electrode that does get the overdone weld ends up having a bit of melted nickel stuck to it. Is that an issue, and if yes, how should I go about cleaning it?
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Idk how it is with the kweld, but I regularly clean my spot welder tips with some sand paper
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How fine of a grit do you use? Don’t want to damage the copper tips.
Puhh 400 grid maybe. You could also ask in the kweld thread. People there can for sure give you the best answer
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Awesome!
Looks like this one…
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71125
Regarding the venting problem, someone on ES suggested that if the polyurethane potting is thin near the vent, it could waterproof the pack without letting too much pressure build up…
@Sender has this been a concern for your builds? I’m thinking that since we’re not setting the cells in a block more than a few mm thick it could vent and keep the water out
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For me it is more of an issue of increasing the difficulty if you need to do any pack repair. Increased heat has not been a real issue. For me at least.
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Ran out of time; guess I’ll have a 10s5p pack to sell when I come back over Christmas 
(Or I’ll just build another board because esk8 is one hell of a drug)
Those fishpaper rings really don’t hold on well. Also I have my doubts about holding the packs together with silicon; seems way too fragile and flexible.
Dont be, I secured a focbox to my deck using silicone and its damn hard to remove
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Among the known reliable, charge only 12s BMS, which one is the cheapest and where can we purchase them?
Does this look like a decent charge port soldering job to you guys? I am soldering for the first time and would like to make sure I am doing it correctly.
Will wrap it under heat shrink of course.
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Looks ok to me.
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