So so so much nope from me. Frayed ends look like scrape/puncture city and the vibrations will wear this down fast. more solder, no sharp edges and heat shrink that bitch, maybe multiple times
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Ugh another long post and no pictures.
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Lol just kidding. Whatās going on?
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@Skunk I think he is mad that no one called out @monkey32 for what he considered a rude comment, kinda like you did with him and the whole karam taking pics issueā¦ nothing that matters.
On something more on topic. This prolly belongs in the noob thread but its battery specific ao i will ask here. I know the 10s8p mh1 pack has max amp of 80 just like a 10s4p 30qā¦ this only pertains to speed and not range right? Does this mean both packs reach similar speed but the 8p has more range?
I donāt feel like @monkey32 comment was rude or fearmongering.
Just warring and giving advice. Not like he said "never use breaded cable "
You literally said I donāt need his help because ( list mistakes from kids past) when he had no part in the conversationā¦ pretty big difference dude.
I think thatās just your perception
If you canāt tell the difference between this situation and the one where you bashed @KaramQ idk what to tell ya mate 
I give everyone shit at one point or another . Read the title. Donāt take it personally.
If I really donāt like you youāll know.
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Thanks for the feedback. Iāll probably solder the frayed ends together to be safe so that there is no sharp ends left, then kapton tape and heat shrink it.
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Yep that is exactly what I am planning on doing. The pictures I uploaded was a trial run to see if I can improve my soldering job. Iāll make sure to follow your advice and secure the braid against fishpaper and secure it with tape. Thanks 
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@giganticfatty I am just curious, is there any specific reason that you didnāt use silicone wire instead of braided copper?
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Usually more cells will mean more current possible, but I guess if they say 80A, then it probably should be limited to 80A, since they probably just used the same thickness wires. So yes, more range, but same amount of acceleration. Maybe slightly more due to less sag (so possible to get that nice 80A at higher overall voltage), but yeah.
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Iām using winfly hardware compression packs 
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Donāt use the pen, Use the inbuild welds from the machine
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Top speed (max motor rpm) is a function of voltage, so (in theory) any 10s battery will have the same top speed. Max amp draw can be increased by parallel cells, which increases accelleration only if amp draw is being limited by a battery with insufficient max amps. Range (total wh energy) is increased by adding more batteries.
Iām busy setting up my new vescs with new battery for the first time and want to make sure I have everything set up correctly. As mentioned previously in this thread, Iāve got a 12s4p battery made up of Samsung 30qās. Iāve got 2 VESC 6s (one VESC 6 and one VESC 6 plus) and 2 of these:
Iām not sure what the battery current max and battery current max regen should be for this new battery. Each battery has a max discharge of 15A so Iām assuming that I can set the max discharge for 4p at 60A. Is this correct?
What would be good for regen?
Also, what is the max that I can charge at to protect my battery? 2A?
Each VESC has individual settings, so you have to add them together. For 60a max battery, you would set each to 30a max. You should be safe to charge at 4a, but I would fuse your charging port. I use -7 regen myself. Hopefully someone else can explain that setting though.
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Sorry if I was ā¦offensiveā¦there man.
Load of awesome from captain douch waffle (@s5300 - can that please be his title descriptor mods) aside.
Iām far from a pro at these things. I just worry about what those slivers of tinned copper might do. Sharp objects and vibration or flex can work there way into plastic heatshrink. There are enough fires out there where we donāt know how they happenedā¦the possibility of sharp, conductive, material bouncing around in MY enclosure would be a big no. Thatās not to say cool idea and you are off to a good start
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No worries at all. I appreciate the feedback. Wouldnāt want my battery to go poof in the middle of a ride either.
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sunkko settings 220v
0.10 adjust 1-2 and 3-4 for pen
0.12 adjust 2-3 and 4-5 for pen
0.15 adjust 3-4 and 3-4+4p for pen
0.20 adjust 3-4+4p and 7-8+4p6p for pen
0.25 adjust 5-6+4p canāt use the pen
0.30 adjust 7-8+4p canāt use the pen
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Attempt #2. Figured Iād take more pictures this time to show everything that Iām doing.
Soldered the split ends together, then added more solder when securing the xt30 to the braid. Did a pull test and was not able to break off the joint.
Kapton tape to secure the braid a little:
Added balance cables to 0V and 4.2V. Added heat shrink to the ends:
Added fish paper under the connectors then added more Kapton tape to secure everything:
Is there anything I should change before I continue with the other groups? Thank you all for your help
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Is it just me or are your - and + both coming off the + ?
Edit ahh wait 2S4P
Edit 2: looks good
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The heatshrink will break before the silicone does trust me