Cheers dudes. @Andy87 they are 20700s but those holders you posted look great.
@deucesdown original plan was to 3d print but my print bed wasnt big enough to print the whole layout and I will save a decent bit of space without it .
Already glued P groups together, im gonna wrap the p groups in cloth tape conforming to the curves and then glue them all together. Once glued there should really be no movement so i reckon the cloth tape will be fine.
I donāt get this diagram.
Where is the plus from the second pack going?
And the minus of the 3rd and so on.
That orientation looks over complicated and wrong. Itās as simple as going + to - for each series connection
@Andy87 I agree. Each cell pack has a positive and negative terminal side. You need to be using both of them.
Worth every cent.
Definitely a wise idea to get peopleās eyes on working diagrams.
Yo can we keep this out of the battery thread
Trying some thing a bit difrance with my series connection by trying to ring them to avoid any fraying ends what people thing going for a 10s 3p with 3 layered of 0.15 by 9mm Nickle (i now think was over kill with ther series connection like this) 15 by 1mm (6mm2) tined copper flat braid (itās going in a Tayo 
)
I am always concerned when using flat braid for any series connections personally.
Especially on flexible packs. They wick a lot of solder and become quite brittle. The micro vibrations from our boards often time end up breaking overtime.
Silicone wire for serial connections FTW!
For sure man. The flat braid is a pain but Iām hella basic and use it because I like the way it looks and how it lays super flat. Iāve only built Rigid/Stiff packs thus far but am concerned about the vibes. Will probably be moving to 14ga silicone in future
I have no intentions of letting my board flex 90deg itās a spud with a fibreglass enclosure so parity stiff and the solder is localised weāre the batteryās toutching so thereās a good 25mm of with out solder if it has wicked hence why it bends so much. What Iām undecided on if I put some Fisk paper between the series connection to alow it to rub better with out doing any dame to the solder or braid over repeated movement the down side is it will increase the resistance a tiny bit but that braid is rated for over 100a in that configuration so I donāt think it would add any resistance if I did that.
Anybody every try potting an entire battery in silicone or polyurethane?
Thoughts?
Seems like it might suffer under itās own heat but if the battery is properly sized it may not be an issue. The thinking is to eliminate vibration and water concerns.
it takes SO MUCH solder to properly soak copper braid. i mean, thereās a reason why solder wick is essentially just copper braid.
the way i use copper braid is itās attached to pcb and i soak the hell out of it with solder so itās pretty damn secure.
I agree. Braids are safe if you use the right amount of solder.
I like this. I plan to build my first battery next esk8 season. this build is really clean and easy to follow for a noob.
Just be careful flopping big pieces of braid around a battery. I learned that the hard way
you havenāt built a battery if you havenāt had a heart stopping explosive short without expecting it.
/r/gatekeeping
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