What battery?
3s3p SPIM08âs
IMO, itâs just right. battery stays cool, leads heat a little, the hand probes get too hot before anything else gets warm. So i just waste time here between p groups 
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Hell yeah dude 
I strongly considered this for my welding, but my car battery has been treating me real nice. What pelican case did you go with to fit all that?
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dood
i dig your mojo
snapping zaps into 'electronic pixies should not be rushed
oh yeah, the car battery is ample
I had a motorcycle battery ant that worked well enough, until I got this one going. If the battery I had for this was bigger I would have stuck with that. Got tired of lifting the battery out of my 4Runner
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yeah, just go with the flow, haha
it stacks up pretty quick anyway, I did all the nickel prep work beforehand, but I have done it between the P groups while the welder cools. Too hectic for me, like pounding good tequila instead of sipping
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sometimes it pays to know when to put down the welder and pound the tee-kill-ya
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welds look goodâŚ
if you work for free
Iâll sell you my kweld and you can build my shit!!
iâll supply materials and gUUd tee-kil-ya upon completion
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oh man, I wanted to do what @Arzamenable did and have âbattery building get togethersâ here but ⌠'ronaâŚ
but⌠your t-shit stunt did earn mad respect, I donât care what they say about you.
edit: there is a fly IN my kweld. this is an omen
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My pool-noodle arms feel this so hard
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ok, welding done.
about 2:30? basically went as fast as the welder would go. I thought I would solder tonight, but thatâll wait for another day
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Install this version of the bms and put the settings like this and after youâre done press the RESET CAPACITY button then you should be all done. I have included some screenshots on how to do it ;).
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BdGGN8MgeBVqNdhVkQ_cjmSqLyg6zsOj?usp=sharing
So uhhhhh my dumbass shorted my p groups on accident (I wasnât even working on my pack at the time, but they shouldâve been covered anyway, I know 
)
I donât see why I wouldnât need new cells, but lmk if reusing them is okay. I think Iâll only need to replace one on the far left in the first picture, and maybe the one on the far right in the last picture.
My question is: is it okay to make new p packs or replace cells in a p pack with new cells at potentially different voltages? Since Iâll need new ones. I think I may have read that it isnât okay, but I canât seem to find the thread anymore (or its on the old forum, and its either down right now or something is wrong with my computer). I donât see why it would be an issue though, since they would balance when its charging right?
But if not, are there any tips for discharging cells if the voltage is too high?
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yeah I love how pretty your p-groups look. HG6âs? 40T?
If they are at drastically different voltages when you connect them in parallel, you will have a spark and a big rush of current while they try to balance out. I think @janpom did the calculations for exactly how much current flow there would be depending on the voltage difference. Either way, best to limit the voltage difference as much as possible.
Just because those are the only ones that fused the nickel doesnt mean they saw more or less current. All the cells in parallel shared the load at the time you shorted the pack, so all the cells are going to be equally damaged. I would replace the whole p-group.
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Still not sure how you did 3S3P when it gave me overcurrent.
Something about the wire lengths I guess.
brother, same thing happened over here. Then after a couple unpluggs and re-plugginâs it workedâŚwas super weird, it wouldnât let me calibrate or change the settings for cable length or anything either. IDK =/
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How can I go about doing this?
Damn, I guess ill need 12 new cells then 
. I will definitely tape up the ends that arenât being worked on next time.
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Charging them all to full is the easiest way.
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I would do this, but Iâve already made all my P groups; any other methods?
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