The battery builders club

you gots to talk about the solutions to problems, not just problems.

Less helpful than full of it

Duct tape works pretty well to secure the leads over time, I have taken apart my 2 yr old beaten to death pack and they were held by ductape in the same place i left them, not the nicest looking solution but who cares

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Got some welding done tonight. Hopefully get a chance to do some soldering tomorrow, then waiting on bms to arrive.

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how you gonna weld that last group?

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Wait why the patches?

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There are tabs for all of them.
This is a good thing to practice on. Should really do some non-battery wedding practice we well

oh lol were you even replying to me @whaddys?

why did I get a notificationā€¦ :thinking:

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The best part about making your own batteries is being able to make batteries for other things tooā€¦I paid $14 to upgrade a dead Dremel battery into one running off 3 brand new 30Q cells (old one were the 1300mAh 13P cells)

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Was shown this in the wild. a ā€œwhy use extra fishpaper ringsā€ example.

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What exactly is happening there? That weld was done on the negative and the corners arenā€™t rounded?

The weld blew through the nickel, above the unprotected negative shoulder. A great way to cause a dead short.

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:man_shrugging: moar current. Felt bad for not welding enough.

They are already welded dude, the nickel is just folded back over on itself

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So question for you guys, with preface; Iā€™ve been building packs for a few years now for off-grid/solar/electronics projects, but not for this sort of application. Understand the reasoning behind using insulators between the parallel groups, considering the vibration and the ease which the cell wrappers puncture and the potential for dead short and fireworks here, so my question: Why fish paper, other than cost? Any advantage Iā€™m missing, vs using solid polyamide insulator (kapton) sheet, or similar? Thicker stuff is insanely durable. Iā€™ve usually always seen something like this in the larger packs Iā€™ve disassembled that have been for automotive use, like the various A123 packs that were used for transit busses and such.

Anyway, thanks!

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Thin films of kapton (tape) arenā€™t especially abrasion resistant. Theyā€™re very heat resistant, but abrasion is no bueno. It also tears fairly easily when subjected to punctures or other stress risers.

Fishpaper is also very cheap and readily available, with a good combination of properties. Itā€™s tough, abrasion resistant, heat resistant, and did I mention cheap?

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Fuck no. I always have the worst time getting some to me

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Let me rephrase.
ā€œmore readily available than bulk sheets of Kapton.ā€

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Yeah Iā€™m not talking about the thin tape stuff, which uses 1mil thick film, although overall thickness with adhesive is around 5mil, Iā€™m talking about the solid polyamide sheet you can get from 3M, 5 mil thick is common, and insanely more tough than the tape. Itā€™s essentially

Fish paper is cheap yes, kind of heavy, and not very fire resistant though, and once it starts burning, it keeps burning from what Iā€™ve seen.

I can also get aramid fiber sheet, both polyamide and aramid have double the temperature rating of fishpaper, and you can get aramid/nomex varieties that are insanely fire resistant.

Plus but Iā€™ve got polyamide sheet on hand.

Anyway, not disagreeing with you on the ā€œcostā€ part of the equation, I asking if thereā€™s anything Iā€™m missing other than cost.

Canā€™t seem to edit any longer, not sure where i was going with ā€œitā€™s essentiallyā€ lol.

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:woman_shrugging:t3: been on the same huge roll of kapton I bought 3 years ago :joy:

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Specifically this. Because

Are we not talking of kapton sheet? Mine is in a roll and 4mil thick

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