The battery builders club

Check the pins of the balancing wires of the charger…sometimes they move when you pull the wires to disconnect it… I’ve got that error ones, one of the pins was not in place…I have the same charger…hope is that the issue…

I think the EU law on using leaded solder is only for production products, it’s fine to use leaded soldered in development environments. Additionally this is not really due to health concerns but more to do with keeping lead out of landfill as significant amounts will eventually leak out into the environment.

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Yes I understand but I don’t build consumer electronics.
And whatever experience you have - a lead free solder joint will never be as reliable as a 60/40 solder joint :stuck_out_tongue:
I am doing DIY for 15 years now and thats at least my personal conclusion.

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I don’t think it can be that, because it’s consistent that the reading changes from 0v to 3,4v whenever the main charging cable is connected.

Try asking @Trampa , they might help you… bought it from them…

Will do.

You are writing it good, cold solder joints, you can have cold solder joints with lead solder too, You just need a higer themp when you are soldering with lead free solder.

I am into soldering for 5 year. The first 2 years I used 60/40 solder too, But my solder skills imporved. Using lead free solder just take some extra skills to have good joints. In those 3 year I am using it I have never had a loose solder joint. This year I am even switched to Sn95Ag4Cu1.

I am not normally a climate hippie, and also don’t care that much about climate.
But if you can do something for the climate in an easy way why not. I estimate your age somewhere around 40. That means that you will not be bothered by the climate soon.
I am only 20 years young and I think my future does not look that bright…

It is all up to you and I can understand that you use 60/40 because it is much easier and cheaper.

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Actually many Chinese brands are counterfeit and the real values are 90/10

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I don’t know, I don’t have a lab to investigate :stuck_out_tongue:

I just use this :slight_smile:

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Haha I’m 24 learned to solder when I was like 12 :stuck_out_tongue: and kinda am a climate hippie haha I mean I could go on rants for days on that shit. 63/37 or bust for leaded Imo.

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Is this the best option for low profile case and battery ? I want to hide the battery as much as possible on my board. Has anyone any opinions or any other suggestions. Diffiicult to find them. Thanks.https://www.ebay.com/itm/254349290117

@CrazyCalzer
Best option is not Ebay. The truly best option is getting in contact with our multiple battery building gods here (in example: @pjotr47)
And having @BigBen create the nicest enclosure you’ve allowed yourself to hold.
Now, if your question was more along the lines of “will this cheap battery work?” I’d say it will…probably for about a month or 2, before you’re stuck buying again.

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Drop me a message on insta if you want :slight_smile: I can do custom packs.

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The Latest: 12S4P Samsung 40T


Complete with a fused charge port courtesy of @b264 wisdom

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Last week I did something extra stupid while talking to my girlfriend and not paying attention getting ready to leave in a hurry – and the fuse on the charge port popped and pretty much made sure nothing else was fucked up besides the fuse. And I could even still ride the board right then – just needed a small, easy, cheap repair before it’d charge again. That’s the second time now the fuse has done its job. Plus fuses are so ridiculously cheap there really isn’t a reason to not have one there.

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You could even argue for redundant fuses so if you make a mistake, there is zero down time. Unless both manage to blow.

I don’t understand what you’re suggesting? Do you have a diagram?

I’m assuming parallel fuses connected in a Y

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Wouldnt that become useless? Adding an extra fuse would result in splitting the load. If that load was supposed to break a single fuse and stop further damage, having its load split to 2 fuses (which wouldnt trip due to the said split of load) before going through would end in hardware damage. Only remedy would be lower amped fuses but then would result in having to change 2 fuses rather than 1

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12S4P box-o-lightning.

This was my first build with folded tabs and P groups joined via copper wires… heavily influenced by @eBoosted among many other fine builders.

Any recommendations on fuse holders for the charging port?



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