The battery builders club

One of the main reasons my packs are all top mount besides one.
Makes charging and storing the pack on a save place way more easy.

2 Likes

I’m considering making a 16s2p pack composed of 4x 4s2p modules in series, each with their own 4s BMS.

Is this a good idea?

I have these in my cars and thinking about adding one for the shop/backpack. Not class D. nevermind.

Class D is for metal fires. Does not apply to Lion batteries despite intuition. ABC is correct.

3 Likes

Coming in a little late. I know some others have helped.
The black lead, often marked B0 is for the main negative. From there, the leads go to the positive terminal of each cell (yes it is preferred to attach to the negative cells at the series connection)
So B1 is the first P group from the main battery negative.
The red wire goes at the main positive end of the pack and represents B13 usually

1 Like

Bootyful thanks I’ll be working on this later tonight and will def be posting for some guidance lol.

Do you have aluminum tape on a board you are putting an unfinished battery on?

This is going to be a solid battery

4 Likes
1 Like

12s3p P42A? You will lose a bunch of that flex when you wrap it

2 Likes

Yes! 12s3p p42a. Yeah the flex will deffienlty be reduced, I am thinking on doing 3 pieces of shrink wrap with small spaces in between them to allow for flex points

1 Like

I’m more worried about the forces that flex is putting on those nickel strips/welds. I would expect them to fail at some point.

That’s just about the worst possible orientation for nickel in flexion IMO.

2 Likes

Series connections will be soldered copper braid

1 Like

That’s great, but each 3p group will still be trying to flex on its own too, and that nickel will be taking a lot of that force.

If I had to do a pack that way I’d make a little “hump” of nickel between each cell to make a point where the flex can happen away from the welds.

1 Like
2 Likes

Is that you, Fozzie?

@Skyarti think my series connections are overkill :joy:

6 Likes

Wow! You building a 500amp pack lol? Where did you even get that stuff? :rofl: going to take sooo much solder :flushed:

1 Like

Somewhere on eBay, it was like $10 for 10"…ehh, the solder is cheap too, maybe $15 for a pound

1 Like

sure, but you’ll have a bunch of connectors to put in the enclosure along with the battery. them shits get bulky quick