you’re not askeered of nicking the wire? and making a stress riser point? and then adding heat to that nicked joint?
you know i’m just fucking about right?
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Haha I definitely split a strand on average, I just tell myself the solder deals with the problem
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for how purdy it is… functionally you know you can do better… the effort only matches artistically
It was from when I rode this and thought it was okay, it didn’t have an enclosure, just some seran wrap and painters tape 
I had just upgraded from everything being in a cardboard box held on with duct tape…the battery was made from hot glue
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Got a closeup of the residue in question?
I imagine it’s flux residue of some sort but the stuff I love for nickel is practically colorless.
If you’re also using flux-core solder, you may just be seeing the leftover (yellowish-brownish) flux from inside the solder. It’s soluble in isopropyl alcohol and should come off pretty easily with a q-tip.
Re: better iron, I’m not brand loyal so I recommend anything with A: at least 60 watts, preferably 70 or 80, and B: has tips with a built-in thermistor and heater. They make the heating and temperature control so much better than the older style where the heater and the tip are separate.
Hakko, Metcal, Pace, and Weller all make them, as well as many many asian knockoffs, one of which I use currently.
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Recommendation for an iron?
I have an Aoyue Int 2930 but they don’t make that model anymore. It’s very similar to the Hakko T12 tip system.
I remember why I had the steel, I had issues when I lost 4 cells in the middle of the street because they fell out
d00d… I understand and agree… but I dunno if’n ya know I did a stint at spaceX… you start to look at things differently when you’re objective is to send peeps into space…
arguably not the best analogy… but why should I care about a random person more than I care about myself… and THIS was someone who made race vehicles… it literally changed my life
EDIT:
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Best bang-for-buck is probably a Chinese station that takes T12 tips. They can be had for about $30 or so, and there are a wide variety of tip styles readily available.
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Dude that is so cool, you have no idea how jealous I am
But yeah that makes sense, never had anything so serious but it makes sense
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Wired like 15 this way 
Also google llt smart bms and find your model
It should be on there as well
I’d like something at least as nice as my 3020… Downgrading to a cheap iron seems dumb
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I used to work on old radial airplane engines. Everything starts to look a little sketchy when someone else is going to be riding in it, in atmo or out of it. As much as I FUCKING HATE safety wire, I still have all the stuff for it and have used it since I stopped working there.
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Imo a great one is the one from hobbyking + set of tips
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eh amp load test it and touch heat test all the connections and roll with it hahah
everything matters till it don’t… when it don’t that’s picking the flyshit out of the pepper… you’re doing good brother…
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I love and hate safety-wire… and when you see an artisan you understand…
… what’s safety wire?
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@MysticalDork how do you use that liquid flux? I’m dumb and kept burning it. I would put a drop on the scuffed nickel and then put the tip of hot iron and on it and feed solder in to tin the nickel. The stuff would sizzle and burn. What’s the proper method?