The battery builders club

Bulk has told me they should have a restock on 30Q’s on the 15th, tomorrow. But they also told me they would have 30T/40T’s in on the 1st and that never happened.

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@ZachTetra @A13XR3 Thanks guys :pray:

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if cells are not touching, you don’t need fishpaper there. However, you need it between nickel and cells if there is voltage difference between them, also between cells or nickel and balance wires. It mostly depends on design of your battery

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I’ve got a good inventory of VTC5A cells if you’re in need.

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“Currently unavailable”, dodged the bullet there big time.
Those are some sexy calipers.

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Do you have 20 you would be willing to sell me?

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Ordered some cells , thanks for the offer. Can’t wait to build with your pcb.

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Yessir. PM me. I’ve got 200/400 VTC5A remaining, all brand new & sealed.

I’m going to throw them up on my site shortly.

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Thank you for the reply. I have regular sheet fishpaper as well as fishpaper donuts so will use it in the areas you have highlighted.

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If I can 3d print cell holders. Is this a good idea to make use of? I don’t see it used a lot for esk8. I do see a lot of the powerwall grid layout builds usign them and sometimes ebikes.

but even for a 12s2p I’m inclined to make holders for those pairs to add a bit more structure. but should I?

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You mean like NESE and WinFly modules…?

The main reason people don’t use them is they take up extra space. They are a good option if you have the space for them and they are a good fit and well secured

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Been there, done that. It sucks, at least the way I did it. Should’ve just bought the injection molded puzzle-piece ones instead of printing my own.

As jigs, they’re fantastic for aligning cells for welding or gluing or whatever though.

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No not the compression style setups… I meant just cell holders/spacers.

I was originally just designing things to help me mock up a staggered stack. I’m not going this route now

but it made me realize I can still design a pretty space efficient casing. that might also provide protection and support for the fishpaper and bus bar on top of the pgroup.

interesting. what’s the way you did it? what sucked?

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I recommend getting the spacers off AliExpress…they are like $10 for $10 and hold everything nice and pretty

So I never replaced my pen when I got the “boss” spot welder. The damn thing is malformed and regardless of how much I try to maintain it, it blows holes every so often.

Too lazy to make my own so I wanted to see if anyone has any experience with either of the two linked below?

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Welder-Square-Welding-Soldering/dp/B07J41KG5X/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=diy+spot+welder+pen&qid=1594775648&sprefix=diy+spot+we&sr=8-4I’

I only see these two kinds out there:

neither feel right for a set of flat p-groups.

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Amazon has them actually, for a flat pack right?

Edit: NVM they are 2 wide at least

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Fess I been thingin’ about 2 and 4 P connection groups… I like the structure of the PCB construction like ernesto does his… and then I thinks…

hey k00k for a 2P group, just buy a 4P PCB board and a quick partial cut of the PCB for what ever trace you wanna eliminate and a few chops of some nickle…

bingo

yeah. I kinda like the PCB style. but it adds a thickness that I think can be avoided. I thought PCBs were introduced for cell level fusing ease.

I asked some questions above.

but perhaps just having a rigid flat component as support is the useful in it’s own right.

so how hard is that to cut?

another route is to order made to order PCBs. small runs are pretty cheap out there. and I’m sure we could talk someone into banging out a simple 2P pcb for 21700 in kicad or somethign.

but if I’m only using it for structure I can 3d print something that fits in those gaps better. and even has a space for a coper bus bar maybe??

idk just thinking things…

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