The battery builders club

Maybe someone can help:
I’ve got a hb83 and built an 8s4p 30q pack.


I used this bms with an e-switch function but i can’t get it to work. The Android app lets me turn the battery on and off remotely but the switch can’t do this. (It seems i need a pc programming adapter to activate this feature which i don’t have.)
This is the switch I used. Nothing special, just on or off

Now the question:
Does anyone know how to turn the switch function of the bms on without the programming adapter or if this doens’t work maybe someone could sell or lend me such a programming thing.

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some anti-spark switches require momentary switches, yours is latching… which does your BMS require?

and no I ain’t gunna read your BMS specs

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BMSs usually don’t use a momentary switch. The switch isn’t the problem here.

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Yes I think it’s absolutely too loose

Any reason to get 4s over 3s for a kWeld? Or would the money be better spent getting more capacity?

  • 4s 6000mAh
  • 3s 8000mAh

0 voters

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I don’t know about the kweld, but my Malectrics steps down the 12v from my car battery to like 3.3v~4.7v while still pushing a lot of amps. So I dont think a higher voltage would be very beneficial.

i cant remmember for sure, but doesnt kwweld take 2s?

It links a 3s graphene lipo and a 12v PSU, but I think the voltage it accepts would work with 4s

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Ahh gotcha. I wouldnt worry about getting higher voltage stuff, deffienlty go for capacity in my opinion

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3S is the recommended for ~12V operation. Dont think 2S is going to work, but I think I remember someone in the Facebook page saying they used 4S, not sure tho.

4s will spark too much, read up on he kweld thread on endlessphere

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The user manual says up to 30V so in theory you can run a fully charged 7s, but I honestly don’t understand spot welders at all so I have no idea what anything means

But 3s seems to be the answer here, all the capacity it is then!

The lower the voltage the better, but 3s seems to be the sweet spot. 4s will not make your welds better.

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Latching switch are kind of a bummer bc they like to eventually vibrate to the off position. Which feels like a hard cut (a fall to the ground).

Is that a spst switch? I see why the Bms might have one here, with Bluetooth and friends on that chip, entirely possible you could drain your battery dead if u left it near empty to go on vacation.

Maybe James knows.
If you do get Bluetooth comms running, see the second page :wink:

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You are able to change this on the IOS app. You gotta toggle it so it’s looking for the power switch to be present. It’s also only in the payed version of the app.

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This one won’t vibrate loose. It’s pretty hard to rock over :slight_smile:
Yeah I know the Bluetooth bms drain the battery a bit over time but when the board is finished It’s pretty much sealed shut so I like the idea of being able to monitor the battery without opening the board.

I’ve tried it with the paid iOS app aswell but it doesn’t work unfortunately :confused:

@Simeon Thats Interesting. I was able to get it to work okay on mine (12s 100A model), but decided against because I was already gonna use a loop key. You are connecting the switch to the two pins marked SW on the BMS?

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Yeah on my 12s 100a bms of the Trampa pack I didn’t use it either because of a loopkey but in this case it has to work somehow…

Yup the switch is directly soldered to these sw pads