The battery builders club

an appropriately rated fuse is NEVER a bad idea…

way back in time I had some of those plastic less that 1amp charge ports that lots a fukker use… I had a 2amp charger on the board… it worked fine forever…

left it on to balance out the cells overnight…

fuse was popped and plastic melted… and NO @KaramQ fire…

charging boards give me the most angst… I use 10amp charge ports on everything now… and my biggest charger is 8amps…

@b264 has probably save 3 of my houses…

3 Likes

Charge port fuse is there to protect the pack against a short that may happen when charging.

If the charger is not plugged in and there is a short on this line then most bms have short circuit protection on the charge input anyway so In theory its already “fused” at the BMS end.

2 Likes

Nice holders, what are these machined from?

1 Like

I have no idea lol. Some kind of plastic though. Its definitely machined as you can see tooling marks from the bit. Whatever it is, its quality made.

@BigZwatt and I got them with cells from a guy in texas. Besides that, your guess is as good as mine lol.

Next time measure from the other side haha


are these the crimpers everyone says are the best for crimping balance connectors?
1 Like

I’m going to try and make some of these myself but I’m heading trouble finding what type of plastic is usually used. Got some HDPE to try out but I’m not sure if it’s too soft.

1 Like

Bulkbattery.com

2 Likes

yes. well not everyone. but they have the hype. I vouch for them.

1 Like

This is enough for me to pull the trigger :smiley:

Hello, I have a 10s1p battery pack and 2 of the cells have gone bad (puffy) — LiPo 36v 6.4ah 230Wh.

I’m getting conflicting answers on if I can just remove the last two cells, leave the last 2 battery leads disconnected, and still be able to run my ESC. The problem that I ran into was the board would cut off within the first 30s of the ride even on a full charge. This is what lead me to open it up and discovering the 2 puffy cells.

Dumb questions (this is new to me but I’m trying to read up and learn as I go):
Does my ESC need 10x 3.7v to run correctly?
For the 10s BMS, what is the rated A for this pack?
How do I find out the discharge rate C of these cells?

Just received some nickel strip today, scratched it up real good, and tossed it in the saltwater. How many days do you guys usually do this for?

steel will start showing rust in about 30 minutes in saltwater, but I leave it at least overnight to be sure.

edit: you can also do the spark test, hit it with a grinder, should not be sparky

2 Likes

Is this website trusted? Its a really good deal if they are legit cells.

Yes, I’ve order a lot from BlukBattery and others here have as well. All the 40T’s and 30Q’s I’ve ordered come in factory packaging and at nearly identical voltages.

4 Likes

I can confirm this

3 Likes

Building a 16s7p pack for a scooter with dual “40a” esc’s. Now I don’t think it’s fully 40a as the previous battery had a 40a fuse on each esc and you’d expect them to be a bit melted if it actually pulled 40a.

Anyway, I’m debating between 50e or 40t. On one hand, I can get 30% more range, on the other 80a is outside the 50e discharge specs. Since it should be 80a peak maybe it’s ok?

1 Like

If Kenny hasn’t gotten to you yet, I can send some your way!

1 Like

I’d bet $10 that they’re Delrin if they’re machined.

1 Like

Yes, I have hundreds of cells from them in my garage. And some more still sitting on my front doorstep. I’ve been lazy today

5 Likes