Yeah I’m in for any type of security. What type of fused do you recommend?
Ok so this is drown from my phone since I’m facing an internet provider issue (and why I’m looking at skateboards instead of working) please don’t vomit.
Does that make any sense? Apart Frome the saisir du texte shit
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Yeah it’s looking ok. If you are ever unsure just remember that the voltage should add up on the balance leads 0, 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, 16.8, 21, 25.2, 29.4, 33.6, 37.8, 42, 46.2, 50.4
Balance lead tabs only on the negative ends of cells is smart, good build.
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It sure is smart since it’s not mine . 
Was originally build by the guy from electric board solutions (I’m not sur of his handle on the forum), to fit an haya83. But now I’m switching my build and the discharge BMS is a monster so I’m taking my first steps into the battery pack world
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p
For my whole battery, was going to be bending the tabs so the wiring is done on top. For this section would I just wire + to + and - to - on the sides, and just to the series connections on the top like the others?
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No, it should care about that much of a difference. And it sounds like the low group is slowly getting higher: First it was 4.0, then 4.02, then 4.03. Like I said, it’s a slow process.
If you have a multimeter with current measurement capability (a DC clamp meter is ideal), you could check which cells are being drained during the balancing process for a sanity check.
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Yea true. I can feel them getting hot.
I misspoke though, the group that I left low seems to be getting lower. (Which is the one that misteriously went to 0.0v on the owner).
I’ll see if my multimeter can detect the load
There should be minimal capacity variance as the pack was fairly new.
@MysticalDork last night B1 was at 3.848, 3.846 for B2 and the remaining around 4.180
Today, I’m at 3.790, 3.738 and 4.167 respectively. On the charger overnight. Green light on
hey, I was wondering if this wiring diagram looks correct? (lipo batteries)
12s 3p 12.6Ah
Untitled 15.pages (147.0 KB)
(i don’t know how to not have the image as a download)
Any car fuse with a crappy solder job will work.
If you plan to charge at 4 amps give it 6 at least.
Use a fuse slightly higher rated than the amps you plan to use for charge.
Solder between charge negative port and -C
Sometimes-C and -P are same port.
I use these:
#Aliexpress € 0,82 | Impermeable 32V Mini Pequeño medio fusible automático titular 16AWG y coche fusible de hoja 2A 3A 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A 35A 40A
The mini version is ok. Pick 7.5 or 10 amps to solve the peak problems and you are golden.
Again…charging problems are rare yet shit happens. Saving a whole pack justifies the little price you pay for a fuse.
Looking for 21700 trays like this, preferably 3P
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Neet, I’m adding this ASAP
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Now, THAT sounds like you’ve got a faulty BMS. It should absolutely not be draining those first two cells.
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Where should I be shopping for batteries? I’m in the US.
looking to hunt down 84 - 108 either 40T, P42A, or 20700b.
I know of
thanks.
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why? naively I’d think closer to the BMS covers more area for shorts?
'cause in a charge port… the fault is cummin from the charge port…
subtle difference but some like to sift the flyshit out of the pepper mill…
oh. :D. I shorted mine with a multimeter. thus I’m thinking about it coming from inside the building…
that was user error
indeed. and a fuse would have helped.
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