The battery builders club

Yeah they seem just as strong as spacers you can buy. Imo you loose a little space in exchange for better cooling and an easier potentially safer build.

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Like this? My hands are a little shaky today unfortunately so will try tomorrow.

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Sorry to detail

This happened near where I live, an explosive fire originating from a smoke / vape shop. Just happened yesterday.

Still no cause but I’m putting my money on lithitum cells, probably improperly stored.

Goes without saying but please be careful handling these cells.

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seems more related to a facility that extracts essential oil from cannabis using butane

cheap & easy process that doesn’t scale up safely

blame us potheads for that one

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The article also said that there was a large presence of butane, which burns extremely high and hot

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yes, but source of fire i bet - pure speculation - sparked by lithium cells.

i’ve seen it, walk into local vape shops and they’ve got used up, loose cells sitting in boxes all over the place.

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Yah that makes sense

Yea looks good. What is the nickel thickness?
3P 40T will have a max output of 75 amps. That’s how much current can flow across the series connections. Which you have two of per connection.
You could double up the nickel on both series connections if it’s 0.2 nickel. If it’s 0.15 triple it. Either way, extended pulls of 75 amps is a lot. I’d consider supporting each series with some soldered copper wire too if it were me.

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Anyone has a 10s bms for sale?

Unfortunately the spot welder my friend lent me is hit or miss with 0.2. Seems to be ok with welding nickel to battery (but not great) and it fails miserably welding nickel to nickel. So I have got some 0.1 and 0.15 on the way. So I’ll hopefully go 2x0.15 for parallel and 3x0.15 for series and solder some wire for series connections also. Thanks for your help.

Any reason why this would be a bad purchase? Finally have room on a desk for a soldering station, and wanna replace the blown DRVs on my FS4.12s

so i got a sunkko 709a spot welder

i ahve hot glued the p groups and rounded off the nickel
i believ the next step is to weld

i have 0.15 x 8 nickel what is the best amount of amps (or how to find that) to weld at
its between 1 and 8 input amps

thank you

I got this BMS:


With the wiring diagram: bilde
And I’m a little confused, so am i thinking correctly, the p+ and p- go to the ESC, p+ and b- go to the charger and the balance connectors go to the positive terminal of each p group?

How bad are these welds and how can I test them ( I went over the last ones)

Thanks in advance

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Do you have spare cells to test test the same settings on with a tab and pull it off. They should tear the nickel vs breaking off if they are proper.

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i have 2 spare cells i can test on

they should rip off and leave holes correct

is there something i should be looking for within the welds?

I’ve got a couple of new 10s BMSs.
Ill dig out the spec if you still need some. They’re bestech but I can’t remember the model number right now.

so i tried it on a spare cell and it would come off with my hands but i had to pull hard
when it came off it left 6 small dents

should i up my amps slightly

forgot to add using 4 pulses (dont really know what it means)

Think @Lee_Wright has some 10s smart BMS if you got the space

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What’s it look like?

You essentially want as much punch with as little heat input as possible.

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