The battery builders club

Better than Aus$
But there was 2 cheaper models i saw as well not sure price dont have links

Sure but problem is that the ones I can get here are not at that price

Yeah actually similar prices i was seeing then saw this one much cheaper for some reason ( maybe itā€™s a knockoff off a cheap welder lol)

With proper battery safety lipoā€™s arenā€™t dangerous.

I mean literally every person carries one in their pocket daily with (almost) no issues.

As long as you check on it in storage every 6 months to a year youā€™d be fine. Also storing them in a fireproof container just in case is not a bad idea.

I mean hell Iā€™ve had lipoā€™s puff in laptops more then Iā€™ve seen in eskate.

I say this as another cheap ass Canadian, there is nothing that beats the BOSS/Kweld, And anything that does is over a grand.

If you really want I donā€™t use my microwave spot welder anymore so pay some shipping and Iā€™ll send it your way, (itā€™s heavy as fuck and fairly clunky so no idea what shipping will run)

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Going lipo would also mean starting from scratch. Lipo+lipo charger+fire case+fire extinguisher+the actual welder= my title checks out

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If you play with any kind of batteries and donā€™t have both of that, than you are doing something wrong.
If you afraid lipos than just donā€™t touch them but a lipo powered spotwelder is the only real portable option. The sunkkos are portable as well butā€¦depends how you define portabe for you :sweat_smile:
An imaxb6 Charger is 35$ and should be in every DIYer household. You sooner or later will need it anyway.
You can also get a 3s bms and charger which is super cheap as well.
There are many options.
A maelectrics spotwelder incl lipo is not more expensive than an ok sunkko welder.
So in fact you would just pay for the charger extra.

But an other question, if that 35$ is such a big bargain for you, why not just to rent a spotweldr for the time you make your battery? :thinking:

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@Andy87

I dont need it to be portable. I have no intention of using my bad skills anywhere that someone could see me :wink: I simply dont like lipos. And I feel I am entitled to my own likes and dislikes :slight_smile:

There was too much no lipo I couldnā€™t see that no before portableā€¦damn it :joy:
As i said, if you donā€™t feel comfortable with lipos than donā€™t use them. Nobody should make you to change your mind.
The other things non the less stayā€¦
If you build batteries you should be prepared for a fire. A fire blanket, fire extinguisher and a fire resistance box where you can through it should be a minimum of safety equipment.
But thatā€™s just my opinionā€¦

I do have a fire blanket and extinguisher in my wifeā€™s car I could bring inside the house. For the box, could I use one of my army ammo crates?

something which is big enough you can just throw the battery in when something goes wrong. I made a box out of dry wall (i think itĀ“s called). An easy cheap DIY box does the job. Ammo boxes are used a lot for storing and charging lipos. Just make sure they not the sealed ones and if they are, just drill some small venting holes.
you can find a lot of ideas on youtube if you look for battery or Lipo bunker.
If you have your own garage or workshop out of the house you might not need a box. For people working in a flat or the house directly I think better to have some kind of bunker.

Lithium iron can do high power and hard to blow up. Also lithium titanate.

Headway hp iron cells are relatively cheap

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You went back to the liposā€¦noā€¦lipos :confused:
@hummieee I was looking at headway already but theyā€™re so freaking huge

you still donĀ“t get it? I donĀ“t try to put you into Lipos stuffā€¦ MAKE what YOU feel better and save with.
ThatĀ“s what I said all the wayā€¦
If i say something is used a lot to store and charge lipos save, doesnt mean its only for liposā€¦
Both burn like hell if they get into a thermal runawayā€¦ to be fair, Lipos are probably even ā€œless dangerousā€ if itĀ“s already too late, but again I DONĀ“T try to put you into direction of Lipos.

You know, you was lucky with your pack and I think you old and clever enough to make your own conclusions out of that.
What you think you need and what not is totally up to youā€¦

Anyone near the eastern North Carolina area that can build a pack? I donā€™t think buying/building a welder and the rear of the supplies for one battery can be justified to the ā€œbossā€ hahaha

Itā€™s this thing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33037565543.html

I got loads of it for the new DAVEGAs, so I stole a bit for the battery. :slight_smile: Itā€™s really nice. Silicon insulation. Very flexible. A bit expensive but well worth the money.

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After doing some more reading, I can answer my own 2nd question about nickel strips and current:

Because the nickel strips are in direct contact with the battery cells (which have a large heat capacity) and the nickel strips are short, most heat generated within them gets transferred and absorbed by the cells & PCB / parallel conductor.

A better way to get an idea of how much current it is safe for a nickel strip to carry can be gathered from this table (gathered by testing) from this Endless Sphere post.

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its funny how everyone looks to this chart or the other on endless-sphere by Niobe, and no one can simply hook a power supply up to a piece of nickel and feel the heat come off and make a decision based off that. not that Iā€™ve done it either. worried the resistance of the strip would be so low it might blow up my bulk power supply. Ive blown up so many doing what theyre even supposed to do.

Well, ideally you would test the heat while the strip is welded onto a battery cell to see how that affects the temperature change. Because thatā€™s a bit of a pain to set up an experiment for, I guess few have actually done it.

There was a guy that did exactly that on endless sphere. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=95517 His method was a little lacking and more data is needed but the results arenā€™t that surprising.

To me that table is only applicable if youā€™re building ebike batteries with much longer runs of nickel, to me it seems insanely conservative for the compact packs on eskates.

I mean more conductor isnā€™t exactly a bad thing as youā€™ll get a pack with a lower IR, but id be interested to see the difference between the IRā€™s of packs that people build and sell here on the forum and to see if there even is any real world difference.

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wow great link. it seems the bigger negative consequence of thin nickel isnā€™t so much the heat and itā€™s negative effects on cell life or being a danger, and more so the voltage drop at full load. maybe part of the reason thereā€™s so many complaints about voltage sag and slower speeds at full current with ion cell packs vs lipo.

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