Did I leave some that need to be trimmed? I was selective and hit the ones I thought could potentially pose a hazard but could’ve missed something. This is a new construction style for me
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I did notice that 
call me precious, but I like them all curvy.
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Phew. Fair enough! All your work is super clean. Mad props
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Cheers bro, i’m a little obsessive with my corners 
But yeah, I woulda picked on you harder if I hadn’t seen your very selective cut corners as long as it’s safe and considered, its all good !
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@Bobby was having issues with his battery.
a spark and a pop while riding and he stopped riding to check it out. Found battery not charging, removed BMS right away. Brings it here, we test each balance terminal and all seems well, untill we check voltage at the charge port and get wonky readings. some of the cells are reading low when checked using the +batt terminal.
open it up to find exactly what I expected. a loose wire due to a cold solder joint. Fortunately, the wire was secured enough that it didn’t go anywhere (which could have shorted it out) so I replaced that solder joint and all other such nonsense that I could see. Set up the new BMS and ready for testing. Sadly my phone can’t connect to the BMS Bluetooth, but light and connection attempts let me know the magic smoke is still inside. the story continues…
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Not me. I mock up my nickel and do all the soldering on a silicone mat then transfer the soldered “harness” to the battery and weld. Even for balance wires, I solder wires to little tabs, then weld the tabs. This way I can take my time with the solder and make sure it’s well and properly heated all the way through without stressing about heat transfer. I only solder to pre-welded battery as a last resort. Did it on my CGT mod due to space constraints. But it still works fine.
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Good to know! Thanks for the feedback
How are the copper braids connected to the nickel atop the battery - Did you spot weld them with the copper above? Based on my understanding you should always have the more resistive metal on top. But maybe it works because the braid is stranded.
Has anyone used This Bestech balance board? It sounds too good to be true.
http://www.bestechpower.com/balanceboard/jh09.html
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P group replaced. Fixed the weak ass main power cable connection (all 50 amps going through .15x8 nickel folded over). Added welds to every connection I moved. Glued, kapton, harness tape, harness again over balance, double heat shrunk with a layer of 1/8 rubber on the deck side in between. BMS working and cells balanced.
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Beautiful work!
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My heart skipped a beat when i saw that. Good you fixed it!
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Are LG MJ1 18650 3500mAh 10A good for a 12s8p pack ? I was thinking of the Samsung 30Q but the “short” cycle lifespan had me thinking twice. Aiming for 2 60A motors that would not run max power to save range
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Yeah, they work great. Just don’t draw more than 80 batt amps, I’m using a batch of them for a range extender project. They’re perfect for range over power.
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Resuming work on this 12s2p HG6 battery. Doing something a bit different with the other side. I found thinner copper braid…lol but it’s a bit to thin for my taste. However it spotwelded really nicely and holds via spotweld slot better then the other stuff. So on this side of the battery I will be doing 4 strips of copper braid on each series connection with a layer of nickel over it as well
@Halbj613
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Series connection between two sides made of 12awg silicone wire…lol, I know my soldering skills need some skill added. I soldered the wires to the nickel strips off the battery and then welded the strips to the battery terminals
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Thoughts on using these for a 10S3P pack? Seems like it could make a decent budget pack at 45A discharge.