I really like it but the sharp corners are making my eyes bleed 
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Love this for series
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Lol very very dead. Went from a lost row of series connections to this. Gonna Repair and run it. Charging a new p group to equivalent voltage
How did it die? I will venture a guess and say that the BMS bled it out until there was nothing left… how else do you kill a group so flat (without fire)? 
Wait a minute. if you can weld copper, why are we messing with nickel? Seems to me copper welded cells would have some serious advantages, especially with the higher discharge cells like 40t’s (@Arzamenable, you get that copper to weld?)
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So…many…weld. How do you people do this so much!? Tommorow is installing the BMSs and charging for the first time!
I guess solder the tabs to a piece of 10 awg then weld it in place for the main pack leads? Is it safe to have the nickel facing inwards as long as I put some fish paper down?
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I could be mistaken but I always thought folks weld the tabs prior to soldering. Maybe that’s just if you need to weld near the solder and don’t want to shoot any off with the blast. But yeah, folding over the cell is fine with abrasion resistance underneath tab. I’ve even double stacked the fishpaper when folding over from the positive terminal just to be safe.
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I thought it was bad to solder since the heat wicks through the nickle into the cell
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This is true. However, with how small the balance leads are. It can be a very quick task to solder them. Not allowing much heat transfer to the cell.
I meant for the main current carrying wire…a single piece of 10 awg with 3 or 4 stripped sections to solder the tabs to that terminates in the XT90s and the splitter that goes to the BMS
If I scratch the nickel first I can solder the balance lead in a second
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Also I think I need a new soldering iron tip…it went banana shaped from the heat I think 
and it’s completely coated in oxide. Probably around 6 - 10 hours at 800 C with this guy
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I like to weld my tabs together like this before i weld to the cells. And then solder onto both of them at once.
Dissipates the heat better, less soldering.
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There’s a pic above. The series connections 3-4 and 7-8 detached. There was not enough penetration to the negative cells. So the whole P strip with series tabs came off. Only this P group is dead. The 3-4 groups are fine and sitting at 4.06 with the rest.
I got a fun no brake situation heading into an intersection. BMS must’ve definitely bled it between then and now I think
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just clean it with a file or some sandpaper if you can get it straight
if anyone has a spare 12s charge only bms in the Us they can send to @skyart then that would be awesome thanks
i will obviously pay for the bms
I have one. 
china shipping times are to slow atm need it within a week or two