You might be right…But lets wait and see…at least we all have some spectations and something to discover…
What’s the general consensus on folding nickel strips? Okay or not okay, I’ve seen many packs built by folding nickel strips, but then I’ve also seen nickel strips fatigue and break from folding.
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Isolating the P groups for vibration is important. This is why copper braid is popular.
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I don’t really get why people worry so much about that so much on here , so many prebuilt packs don’t isolate p groups and work perfectly fine for thousands of miles.
If you have any material like hot glue between cells, the heatshrink rubbing through due to vibration shouldn’t be a issue
Being folded once and never moving again is 100% fine. It’s the constant flexing caused by our long skinny flat batteries on long skinny flat decks that causes the issues.
The larger the radius the better, and the less stress per unit area of nickel (leave extra for bending) the better.
Copper braid is much more forgiving than nickel strip, but even that can fatigue and work harden over time if you don’t leave adequate material and radius.
Think of a paperclip. Bend one in half and it’s fine. But bend it back and forth in the same point, even just a little, and it will eventually break. If you spread that bend out over a half-inch of the paperclip’s length though, it will last many many more cycles before fatigue sets in.
Basically you want to stay in the elastic region of the material. Once you get into the plastic region, it’s only a matter of time.
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I don’t think there is a definite way to prevent the nickel from moving, or is there?
Construct your packs in such a way that the flexure points aren’t made of nickel. The intra-P-group connections don’t have to move. But the connections between each P group do.
The battery cells themselves don’t bend. Only the joints between cells bend. So any nickel running longitudinally (parallel with the deck, perpendicular to the axis of flexure) will be bending, but any nickel running the other way will not.
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I’ve just avoided the nickel folding problem completely by not folding nickel on my back, but I wanna try nickel folding on my next pack as it’s the most efficient way to layout the cells.
I used 14awg wire in place of where the nickel fold was supposed to be at the end
I don’t really see a way of making a uni pack flexible 
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I think given that it’s a more monolithic blocky pack not strapped to a bendy piece of wood with a person bouncing on the other side, you should be fine. Just make sure the pack can’t bend or flex under its own weight or vibration, even a little.
Also be aware that the series connections carry all the current, whereas intra-P-group parallel connections don’t. Copper is a much, much better conductor than nickel, and I much prefer it for series connections for that reason.
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Its been around 600 miles so Im preety confident in the pack, it’s survived riding jumping down stairs and stuff
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had the same problem, either it doesnt weld or it makes a hole in the cell and a big bang
throw that sunkko shit away and get a kweld / malelectronics
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Gotta wait until I start getting paid again to buy big news toys 
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Looks really clean!
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Thanks 
Did you build a new pack for better range by fitting more cells? Or just replacing with higher quality ones?
New pack, cause the factory one went 
due to a accident
*Edit and while I was at it replacing the burnt pack I also added another pack for extra range.
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12s2p HG6 60amp battery first official battery commission
@Halbj613 starting to work on the p groups!
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I want to confiscate your glue gun. Lol.
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I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJ7W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dWLFEb84G0CG8
Orderless. You just have to wait a few hours for it to cure. Hot glue makes the pack too stiff
You want the pack stiff on the nickel’d P groups though. The nickel doesn’t bend so you don’t want the P group cells to flex either. Otherwise it’s just the nickel holding it straight…