Molicel p42a 
@PixelatedPolyeurthan @hans_maier
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Oh yeah baby 
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That’s a lot of power god damn
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I will use a 10s bms on the customers battery but im just wondering
From experience when you have a dead p group with 0v it will still charge the others untill any cells gets to 4.2v or whatever the top limit is and start balancing, so I guess it will work for 10s as it monitors each cell and not the total voltage of the pack
Just asking if someone did this
If a P group is dead, the BMS will (or should, no guarantee from some of the cheaper shittier ones) flat-out refuse to charge or discharge until all the cells are matched. (if one group is 2v and all the other are 3.7, it wants all to be 2v).
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Or you could get proper test equipment in the first place that meats legistration. (It’s a pain in the ass some times tho)
Is there anything wrong with building a battery in this configuration? Motivation for doing this is that I want to extend the 10s3p battery I made just a couple of months ago so I don’t want to have to split it back into individual cells. I will insulate with fish paper and will shrink the two levels separately before together. BMS will be separate and soldered in the usual locations
Haven’t seen it done like this before so wanted to check
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honestly dont see any befenfits and only increased height with this config
I haven’t gone for a single layer due to space, i have seem similar 12s4p packs but none with the poles arranged in the same way
You’re probably going to break welds or nickel on those long strips if there no way for the groups to move/flex. But you keep everything rigid enough and you might be fine.
My only other input would be the BMS wiring might be a bit of a hassle in this orientation.
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So I have this generic eBay bms for a 10s battery. Seller has no info on it. Anyone could share a scematic for wiring it by passed?
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Got a pic of the back of that pcb? You need to find which pins are b-, and b-1 through b-10
Don’t worry, those are all the same 30qs from a larger 12s7p that I didn’t like. Just rerapped.
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Unfortunately it has no markings. I have the usual -C, -P and -B on the top.
But not sure on the -1…-10.
Also, that nickel dust is super bad for your lungs. Wear a mask.
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Oh… I think you just saved us all a lot of time with scissors.
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B- is from pack negative to BMS.
C- is charger negative
P- is discharging negative, leave this empty for bypass.
You’ll have 2 negative wires off the pack, a short one to the BMS and a longer one to the XT for discharging.
Your charger positive will go to the pack positive, negative to BMS.
But where is the fun than?
Nothing more relaxing than sitting at home in the evening and cutting corners 
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I hope thats sarcastic haha