The battery builders club

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Shit, thanks. I was trying for charge only. Can you help me with what I need to change for charge only?

Ok, thanks, that is where I started but then I guess I got tripped up thinking about regen. If I wire for charge only does that then bypass the bms completely for the current going back to the battery under breaking?

Yes, when you bypass bms for charge only, you can consider battery bms-less. Bms only exists during charging.

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Did you get good 25mm nickel from that vendor? Mind sharing which it was?

It’s on its way, supposedly.
Coronavirus held it up for weeks, but I got a shipping confirmation last week…

As soon as it arrives I’ll get a piece in saltwater and report back.

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Regen is independent of the BMS and yes if you don’t want discharge from the BMS, then run B- to BMS and another B- to xt90, nothing from BMS to xt90

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Hey @pjotr47, how does it look for some welded p-groups for the first time?:yum:

Need some extra practice on rounding corners but all looks fine :slight_smile:

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Dremel was too bulky. The scissor is ok.

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Oh an btw. With .15mm sheet metal you can forget proper radius filing. It is my daily job. :joy:

Laser cutter :kissing_heart:

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Too expensive :smile:

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thank you, let us know!
Btw, if you only need half, I would be down to share.

So if this battery looks like a bomb, should I just begin to call it such, and maybe even very loudly in a public setting as I charge it? :face_with_monocle:

(Asking for a friend)

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Here’s an infomercial on soldering copper braid fast.

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What if it’s already tinned :joy:

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Still gotta tin it again :joy:

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You still gotta saturate the area to be soldered with solder.

In the case of pretinned wire/braid, tinned just means it has a few microns of not-copper (usually pure tin, but YMMV) around each individual strand. You still need to fill all the voids and air gaps with solder before you can quickly, easily and reliably fuse it to another item.

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