The P26A at $4 look good for choo choo actually. 21700 is pretty complicated for choo choo, I’m not sure I want to work that hard! I’m also looking for the Century 40. Deal expires 2/4, so soon!
@Sn4Pz I doubt they’ll do further discounts on this price.
Ha lol this reminds me of the P26A flash sale that turned into a bonfire of dogshit. 
Actually the Molicel is very interesting at this price… Cheaper than fogstar for once.
It depends.
Do you use an impact driver to do hand watch repairs?
If the answer is yes, then it is not too much 
Okay, running the numbers
| cell | capacity | mooch disch | price | price/AH |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 30T | 3AH | 35A | $4 | $1.33 |
| P42A | 4AH | 30A | $5 | $1.25 |
It’s looking good for P42A. This cell was never on my radar because $$$. Researching cycle life now…
- Cycle life: 500 cycles at 4.2A charge and 10A discharge for 80%
Looks like a winner for the Century build. Question is 12s or 13s. I don’t think I can print enough dummy p-groups to test empirically. 
And still in the air for choo choo.
Thanks @KfromtheBay
EDIT
The 30A graph is a bit weird! You basically lose the kick of a fully charged pack. Which is tilting it toward trying to squeeze 13s in…
Yeah that initial punch is what would have me go 30T on any race board that I’d likely be trying to get up around full charge before heats. But for any daily or weekend cruiser where I want the mileage and actually plan on drawing the pack down a ways, I’d go Molicell 
We’d probably have to try pretty hard to notice the difference though? 
I just checked your build thread (my reference guide!) again, looks like there’s plenty of room for 13s4p? I’d most likely run without bms.
From my experience it’s a few mph off the top speed?
@KfromtheBay what kind of wh/mile are you getting?
Sorry yeah I meant the difference between the Samsung and Molicells. You’ll definitely notice the voltage difference!
It’s pretty close to being a squeeze within my enclosure with the 12s4. But that’s due to lazy placement of BMS.
If you got clever with it or decided to run without and do maintenance balancing there should be no issue fitting in another P group
Im sitting here doing a bunch of soldering, and it got me curious; why do we clean the flux off of a finished solder joint? I understand wanting to be clean, but im sure there has to be a more significant reason why.
Main reason is, the remnants can be corrosive or conductive to some degree. Strong flux is more corrosive, and uncooked flux is more conductive. And remnants can also be sticky.
Speak for yourself 
I spread around flux like a fat girl spreads nutella. Ain’t nothing of mine corroding so far. Maybe in 10 years, doubt it’s going to have that long of a service life.
I can’t help myself, I keep squinting at the circles to see what’s wrong. Involuntarily.
Probably the missing balance wires, but who knows, that’s not my circles 
Those are next haha, ill post a lot more pics when its fully completed
For that money you can get a weller w201, that one will be enough for sure 
Anyone know a good source for wide nickel strips in the US? Like 20mm or 30mm wide
