I just pressed the straight wire against the thicc wire and let it cool down. Nothing is wrapped.
Well, if weāre going to be really technical here, Lineman splicing is the only acceptable way to join wires for ultimate strength and bond in safety oriented industries like aerospace. This does work for multi-strand too, but it does create a bit of bulk at the joint. In applications with multiple wires side by side, the wires should be cut in a staggered fashion so that no 2 joints will sit side by side in their resting position.
TL;DR: Aināt nobody got time for that.
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Donāt mind me, Iām just jealous of Yannickās voodoo soldering skills 
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Same actually, Iām quite confused how he got 6 wires to sit perfectly together like that without wrapping it with something. I donāt think I have the patience to do even 3 like that
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@glyphiks Thank you.
Spoiler
It is one 10 gauge wire with the removed insulation. Pretinned it and then slapped the four wires on it
I use zip ties to temporarily bind a bunch of wires into a bundle prior to soldering them together sometimes. Keeps everything together perfectly while going completely OCD on the solder joint.
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A third hand helps also.
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I didnāt grow up in chernobyl though.
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Iāve seen somewhere, I donāt know if it was in an Esk8 build. That you wrap thin copper wire around the solder joint to bind the wires together
I like this too. Get good end to end contact. 
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Yeah I wasnāt born that lucky 
more like an 11th finger
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Solder session coming in Febā¦
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Looking for some help with one of these constant current load testers. Never used one before, looked it over and watched a few videos. Pretty sure thereās something wrong with mine.
Brand new. Powered in back with included 9v1a power supply.
So started off connecting a 10S3p battery pack to the inputs on the left. Yes I double checked polarity. Yes the current control knobs are all the way counter clockwise. Got a sparkā yea a 10S spark. Replaced the XT60 that charred the negative pin.
Tried again, this time with an XT90S and I put a 15amp fuse inline. Smoked the fuse right away when i connected. Hmmm
So now Iāve connected something smaller (included usb A to alligators) to either end of a single 25R battery and it immediately shows 1V and 11amps. The battery and cables got warm and control knobs still at minimum. The cell dropped to 3.05 V when I tested it after it was disconnected.
Hereās the 25R connected
Fan spun when it was plugged in. Never saw correct voltage on screen 3V or 42v on the prior test.
I tried to test a portable battery pack and got no readings. I tried plugging a 10S 2A charger into the input 5.5 jack and get nothing.
Seems like itās trying to pull max amps. Any way to test it? No burn marks underneath
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And with livestreamā¦
Guys.
Which version of the dickyho bms doni get for 10s?
Charge only.
Will bypass for discharge.
Going to build a 10s4p 30q pack.
Load/charge same port 15A should be more than enough for a charge only BMS.
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that looks awful, mainly because youāve obviously put a LOT of heat into those two cells putting a solder blob that big onto them, and the solder isnāt wetting out properly on the nickel.
You need a more aggressive flux for soldering to nickel strip than you do for soldering copper wire. I swear by āRuby Fluidā liquid flux.
For soldering ANYWHERE near batteries, lat alone right on them, you want absolutely the smallest amount of heat input possible. Too much heat for too long will damage the cells, and in extreme cases can result in an immediate thermal runaway and/or explosion. The technique that Iāve found best is to have your iron set very hot, and go really fast. Itās better to go hot and fast than cool and slow. A fat tip with lots of thermal mass is also helpful.
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I guess I will have do better next time. I am not going to put more heat on that thing anymore. Lesson learned.
But @MysticalDork donāt get me wrong I am grateful for you guys taking the time to rate my work or should I say my failure
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I have no direct experience, but everything Iāve read says cautionā¦ If it works for you carry on.
Donāt see anyone talking about this site maybe its new on the PGroup block
https://www.bulkbattery.com/batteries/21700/
$150 min order and free shipping over $500
so If me and a friend go in on 200 Samsung 50E together it would only be $432 each
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Itās not a good idea if you have access to a spot welder, but Iāve built three packs that way and so far so good.
My technique, combined with an excellent soldering iron with great thermal performance, means I can complete a solder joint on the bottom of a cell is less than ~1.5 seconds, and can hold my hand on the joint immediately thereafter. That flux also helps a TON - Tinning the cell with it is super quick compared to regular flux.
@b264 has one of my packs, and may be able to give some lifespan info, as he rides more than I do.
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