I don’t mind soldering, but that flux is corrosive… Might not be a big deal on chunky wire and nickel?
It is, but I only use a tiny, tiny drop, like <2mm diameter, and it’s mostly water. It doesn’t take much.
From the manufacturer’s description: “General purpose flux. Easy-to-use. Produces strong, durable joints without corrosion or dangerous fumes.”
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Yeah, if you have been soldering for 30 years and are a professional then it’s possible but I generally won’t recommend it because folks underestimate the “if you have been soldering for 30 years” part and think they can do it anyway when you mention that it’s possible.
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Yow. From the spec sheet
SAFETY AND PRECAUTIONS Superior RubyFluid is a corrosive product and should be handled with care and the normal precautions taken when working with chemical products
The MSDS says zinc chloride.
Links are from https://superiorflux.com/rubyfluid-flux/, which does not mention electronics.
https://www.lifewire.com/types-of-solder-flux-818849 says:
Inorganic acid flux works better with stronger metals such as copper, brass, and stainless steel. It’s a blend of stronger acids like hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride, and ammonium chloride. Inorganic acid flux requires complete cleaning after use to remove all of the corrosive residues from the surfaces, which will weaken or destroy the solder joint if left in place. Inorganic acid flux should not be used for electronic assembly work or electrical work.
And https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-use-zinc-chloride-on-electronics says:
Zinc chloride is an aggressive flux. I would not use it on electronics, although you can if you have nothing else. It’s more suitable for soldering and brazing copper and brass with a gas flame, and you may find your soldering iron isn’t hot enough to activate it; but if you were told to use it, then at least try. When you are done, wash it well with copious amounts of hot water and a stiff brush, since traces of corrosive zinc chloride left in crannies between the pins will cause no end of trouble in future. It eats copper and conducts electricity.
For electronics, a resin flux is always preferable. If what’s provided in the solder core isn’t enough, you can buy it in handy tubes for not much money. It says “no clean” because it isn’t corrosive like a chloride so you don’t have to clean it off, but it washes away in alcohol.
Again, I have no personal experience.
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I agree, and if I build another pack, I’ll take more care in cleaning the cells after tinning. Basically I tin the cells with ruby fluid, then all the rest of the soldering (tinning the copper braid and combining the two) I use regular rosin flux.
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I kinda wanna try it 
What’s the worst that could happen? (Don’t answer that)
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Just finished my new 10S5P eBike battery with Sanyo GA cells from nkon
those nickel strips are awesome and make spot welding so much easier. Just took me a while to come up with the best layout so that the series connections have as much nickel as possible.
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Shrink wrap that bitch and it will look good again 
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Trying this battery thing again afterrmy D140 went up in smoke and I want to be sure I get it right the second time… I ordered a new D140 12S bms that has a B- balance wire. If im not mistaken the B- should go to the first negative cell right? and the first B1 betweet the cell 1 + and cell 2 -
well… my timing kinda sucks.
I tried to order the Dickyho one this morning and his store is closed for Chinese new years.
I ordered this one from LiTech and worry it may take a while as well.
https://litechpower.com/product-detail/HCX-D725LI10S20A_04.html
Can anyone recommend an ok one to use that I can get from a US shipper on Amazon or Ebay???
again need BMS for 10S4P for Charge only. need it to be on the small side.
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Maybe bkb has some d140 in his store
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ah. that is a good tip. I had forgotten to check with Jared. Unfortunately the BMS are gone from the website.
@BuildKitBoards
you don’t have them currently do you?
ask some battery builders to sell you they usually have some stock
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They have the D140 in stock
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Expensive tho + he’s in the US
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I have D140 10s, new, packed, and I am in EU. 28 eur or 31 usd shipped.
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Thanks dude. I appreciate it. but unfortunately I believe the D140 is going to be too big… I need one of the little BMS like the Dickyho or the LiTech because I am going to be putting a 10S4P in a Backfire enclosure.
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Note that the litech D725 you linked earlier does NOT have cell balancing. The D140 is the smallest BMS that does. Without cell balancing the BMS is barely useful.
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