Stop talking it up you’re gonna make me buy it 
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I mean its good but not the best out there 
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I need a small 10s bypass BMS… if thats not the best than what would you reccomend 
Its going to be hooked up to a 10s3p 30t
Getting a D140 and using it until Flexi comes out is what I did for a battery I built for myself.
But if you dont want to wait, get the neptune, Im sure you will be happy haha
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The D140 is so suspect
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So is there a general consensus on what BMS is currently leading the pack? Say I wanted to build a battery in 2 weeks, what do I get? 
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How much worse is it to weld parallel connections first? Figuring the rigidity will make assembly a lot easier
Also, I rewrapped these cells so they have a fish paper ring under the heat shrink but no plastic ring, should be fine as is right?
I was thinking of building a 10s2p pack, single (mono) drive board, and I will mainly use it too and from school or for fun 
maybe with 25r Samsung’s… would you guys recommend a diff batt? I’m running a cheapo flipsky 4.12 rn but will be gettin the neobox when Jeff starts cranking em out
(I’m lookin for things about amperage, sag, bms info, etc, I understand the simple fundamental basics but want a second opinion)
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It needs to be said, BMS are overrated, just build your battery and led God sort it out
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If you want to go 2p than 30T is what I would go with, but you probably cheaper and better with a 3p 30q. Wouldn’t go with a 2p personally.
Depending on how heavy you are and how the streets look like 2p would work more or less good, but you will have a good amount of sag for sure. @Rob
What do the results from dremeling the nickel mean?
If it sparks, even in the slightest, its composition of pure nickel is less than an acceptable amount for building safe LiIon packs. Maybe somebody else could extrapolate further.
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When attacked with a grinder or dremel in this case, ferrous metals will spark. Ferrous metals contain a much larger percentage of iron than non-ferrous metals.
Non ferrous metals are generally much better at conducting electricity.
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Anyone have any experience with this BMS? The size and availability are good but I don’t know about quality. Any input or experience would be appreciated.
I’m 150lbs and it’s a mono drive board, flat ground… all I need amps for is stop signs and acceleration 
30q might be the way, I was thinking of 25r’s cause they got em on sale rn @ 18650 battery store… and they got a fair 20a cont per cell. I’m tryin to stick below 80$ in cells, but I’ll take it into consideration @Andy87
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At 5$ a cell I could do p26a cells from molicel… not some 30q bois… I’ll prob stick wit the 25r or wait for a better sale
That’s a charger only, by the looks of it what’s on the other side?
Well it makes possible things like this!
I don’t ride this board much, but have a raspberry pi scanning all my smartbms once a day. I can check (or the system can tell me) if I need to top off.
As you can see, these bms are a bit wonky. Sometimes it does a small drain, sometimes it goes into a bigger drain. I think it varies by date, as in they’re constantly changing things, for better or worse. Earlier ones, I could poke around the bluetooth module and change the module’s name. Newer ones seem read-only.
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Woooowwww. Thats awesome 
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