The battery builders club

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics
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#2699

I print one. It is just a click away with octoprint.

3 Likes
#2700

Thanks for the advice !

1 Like
#2701

For the straight H type nickel better go with this

https://eu.nkon.nl/accessories/packaccessoires/battery-solder-strip/nikkel-batterijpack-verbinding-soldeerstrip-27mm-3116.html

The one I used is for spacers so it is designed for a little bigger distance between cells.

#2702

I weld a fucking brick. Do 8 nickelstrips(8P configuration) in series withstand 120A?

#2703

Depends on the size of your nickel. Iā€™d be happy with it with 0.15 x 12.

Also, before you wire up the foot pedal on your kweld, consider putting a little plug on the lead for it. It is a pain in the arse to store it away with the foot pedal attached.

4 Likes
#2704

I say definitely yes.
Donā€™t forget that in our application you will only see 120A for a few seconds at the most if at all.
There are cell level fused packs where the wire section is a fraction of a nickel strip (even taking into account the difference in conductivity of copper).

1 Like
#2705

Iā€™ll also dig into the cell level fusing topic, before I start welding.

1 Like
#2706

In my opinion, especially for a brick type pack, all it does is introduce more failure points.
A brick is easy and the more solidly it is constructed the better.
Use H type strip or wide 25mm and donā€™t look back.
Donā€™t forget to reinforce the first and last p groups with some extra nickel or copper wire.

20181122_191723
20181122_1917233024Ɨ4032 3.7 MB

6 Likes
#2707

BMSwise Iā€™d go for a D140 or Smart bms or maybe a DieBieMS.

1 Like
#2708

I havenā€™t had any problems with the D140.
I have a smart BMS destined to go in an ebike pack but have not hooked it up yet so canā€™t provide any feedbcack.

20190902_190857
20190902_1908574032Ɨ3024 4.12 MB

9 Likes
#2709

@taz coming in hot with the battery porn this morning. Love your work man :metal:

5 Likes
#2710

Thanks mate. I love your board. One of my favourites in the forum and the type of boards I feel are most suitable for an urban environment (drop deck + pneumatics).

1 Like
#2711

My local dudes are running them. @Pryside


Anyways. It will be awesome, when I build my own battery.
4 Likes
#2712

any suggestions for 30amp cell connections?
Iā€™m thinking about using this for the P connections, couldnā€™t find 40mm wide strip.

I think Iā€™ll use copper braid for series. this is going to be a 120amp batteryā€¦

IMG_20200103_164231_4
IMG_20200103_164231_43264Ɨ2448 2.59 MB

1 Like
#2713

For this type of battery/deck combo you need flexible series connections so I would go for cable if you put the series connections on the side (provided the cable fits).

You could also go for this type of series connections

20190417_192248
20190417_1922484032Ɨ3024 4.14 MB

2 Likes
#2714

@taz thanks for the input.

re: copper braid, it seems very flexible to me when you donā€™t soak it in solder. why would it be less flexible than a round cable? presumably the same metal in a similar configuration, just flatterā€¦

IMG_3199
IMG_31994032Ɨ3024 2.29 MB

1 Like
#2715

I do not have first hand experience with braid.
I have seen a few failures online though so I tend to avoid it. Maybe I should give it a try at some point.

1 Like
#2716

Itā€™s a little tricky because if you arenā€™t quick enough or donā€™t use the right technique the solder can run from you pretty quick. I usually get my iron nice and hot and try to work at the very edge

3 Likes
#2717

Itā€™s flexible, but it canā€™t stretch as the board flex, if you use a pair of curved wires they can stretch easily

5 Likes
#2718

ah. ok. for that battery I did gap it a little so it could bend without strain.
trying to cram this battery under a @BigBen single stackā€¦ seems like 2x10g may ruin my form factor :thinking::joy: