So if I have a 30amp BMS I can use 16awg?
Should be okay
Almost forgot about this.
I love this thing! It’s nice and compact, easy to carry in my backpack if I know I’ll need to charge. The fan is barely noticeable and according to the LLT app (maybe inaccurate?) it’s actually charging at close to 11 amps rather than the advertised 10.
It has a built in slot for a fuse, right?
I’ve found that those bms aren’t always entirely accurate when it comes to that charge current reading.
Yeah, they’ve got an easily replaceable fuse.
Nah. To get Nickel to corrode you’d need some very spicy stuff.
Good to know. What about the solder joints themself?
Depends on what solder you were using, but both tin and led have very good corrosion resistance. Corrosive flux usually only hurts your soldering iron. It’s another story if something got onto the cell cans though, those are usually made from steel.
Do I need to run an anti spark or anything? Starting to get lost in the build haha. I feel like I know what’s going on and all of a sudden I no longer know what’s going on.
20amp fuse from positive charge to positive on the battery.
Negative charge port to C- on BMS.
Negative battery to B- on BMS.
Am I missing anything?
Looks great. Now to change and get that first balance charge baked in.
Should first charge be to 100%?
Ya, top balancing is the only reliable way to do it. Just plug it in and monitor it. Depending on your current balance delta it may take a day or 5 to get there.
Should I be charging it now? Or wait until I’ve figured out Vesc tool and everything else?
Dealers choice. It doesn’t hurt anything to do it now vs after. It just takes some time you can spend now or later ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Yup, i get dumb and use hundredths (10.56) just because i can though it won’t have any real impact on anything
Awesome, thank you so much
