Yep, had forgotten about that, after placing some heavy cardstock in there that case can only fit 11S7P, looks like I need a bigger case.
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My bms leads arenât long enough and I donât have whatever gauge to match them. Can I use larger wire or no?
Yep. Stock wires are usually 22 awg but 20 or even 18awg will do in a pinch.
Awesome thanks!
For wiring discharge on the bms, is there no need for an individual b- wire (16awg for e.x)? I guess the main b- wire for power acts as the connection?
And I just wire up the positive of the pack to the connector that BMS B- is hooked up to?
Yep looks good. Be sure to check your voltages at the balance pins before plugging it into the bms. If you wire it wrong, youâll pop it and need a new one.
Which bms are you using?
you are saying check the voltage at the pins of the connector?
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Theres a presolder wire for c- and b-
Cant find a wiring diagram.
do I put the presoldered B- wire to battery negative, then solder another wire to other empty b- hole in the bms that will be the main discharge lead?
You can do it that way, or just remove the presoldered wire and add a small gauge (big enough for whatever charging current youâre running) wire to the battery negative and then run you main battery negative from there.
All the high current will be coming from the battery and going to the ESCs, and it doesnât need to pass through the BMS at all.
Yes. Start at B+ and measure B+ â B18 and then B+ â B17 etc⌠noting the increase in voltage. For e.g., if your cells were sitting at 3.5v, you first measurement should be 3.5v (B+ â B18) and your second (B+ â B17) should be 7.0v and and so on.
Measure from here:
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Practice tonight. None of them could be ripped off so thats promising.
Anything glaringly shitty here?
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Looks pretty good, nice wetting on the edges.
One tip for the fat wire is to leave it a bit fanned out, rather than twisted into a log. That will allow more of the wires to get into close, intimate contact with the base nickel with as little solder intermediary as possible. Mash it down with the iron, and then maybe hold it in place with a screwdriver or similar while you withdraw the iron and allow the solder to cool.
This also helps make a lower profile, less protruding solder blob which can also be helpful.
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Yep, makes sense. Cheers
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You donât need to roughen up the nickel. It doesnât hurt, but those few scratches will do very little. A piece of medium grit sand paper would be better, if you insist on doing it.
I usually rough up where I want to solder with a few scratches to hold the flux and solder pool in place better. They tend to stick/stop at the edges of the scratches.
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I ended up doing just that on another test piece to see if l the bond was different, i also did one with no sandpaper or scratches and i wasnt able to remove any wires on any of them.
Roughing the nickel with a dremel is the only way. Always done it, soldering to unroughed nickel seems to need more heat for the solder to flow onto the nickel nicely.
What gauge wire should I be using for C- & B- ? I currently only have 10, 16, and 22 AWG. I can obviously order more if need be, but prefer not to.