Thx for this, brother. Bookmarked. This is an excellent post for this thread 
You should honestly start youāre own sub under battery builds to discuss this topicā¦ I thinkbl thereās a growing need/appetite for it.
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Thatās a pretty good idea, i have a fresh batch of dead ebike batteries im starting to work on so ill take pics this time. Would be nice to put some resources all in one spot
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āThat Mooch is bullsh*tā¦40Tās are just as good as a P42Aā
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These molisungs hit different
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Iāve read the follow-up comments, donāt have the highest hopes for them, but chose 96 of these to try in the modular 12S8P Iām building. It was either that or a mixed lot of 30Q that have been sitting since 2018 and 2020 respectivelyā¦ They may as well be used too. Iām NOT a huge user of heavy throttle, rarely draw more than 40A at 12S on the board Iām poweringā¦ If I can get 7A per cell reliably, 56A will do. Since cell-level connections are via brass M3 screws, even 7A/56A may be a chore, cell choice notwithstanding. Iāll find out the hard way, as I usually do.
Agreed.
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That a piece of neoprene between groups to allow flex? Nice idea!
a bit confused by this. I thought the longest measurement is what you use to determine the width of the nickel?
The width basically means edge to edge distance that is perpendicular to the flow of current
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They look better for sure. Try and get the solder smooth and shiny.
After youāve fed enough solder, I hold down the wire with something (flathead screwdriver for e.g ) and carefully remove my iron making sure not to disturb the solder pool. Count 3 Mississippi before moving your flathead (or wtv).
If you donāt get it right the first time, reflow it by adding a bit more solder and completely wetting the solder again.
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Donāt do what I did and leave it idle at 400C between solder joints or your tip will be unusable.
This shouldnāt really matter as long as you scrub the tip w a brass wire sponge so it doesnāt oxidize too badly. On of these guys:
If you leave it for too long, most irons have an auto shut-off
I shit you not I scrubbed it against one of those for almost 2 hours and didnt make a difference. No idea how it became so oxidised
There are flux types out there that are very corrosive.
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Did u leave solder on the tip? I scrub it right after Iām done the joint to take most of the solder off.
Also this is very valid.
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Shit. Hopefully my battery isnāt at riskš
I leave it on the tip most of the time. I thought that youāre meant to leave it tinned to protect the tip
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Need some help deciding what to do with the battery pack for a mountainboard build. I messed up my math a bit and have less room in the case than I thought. So my options here are:
- Build a 12S7P pack with a decent amount of protective foam around the batteries.
- Build a 12S8P pack with very little foam around the batteries.
Iād love to get the extra range that the 8P would give, but I also donāt want to compromise the safety of the pack by not padding it enough. Thoughts? Picture is the 7P arrangement with plenty of foam.
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Donāt forget, fishpaper takes up a not-insignificant amount of space, so youāll have even less than u think
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