They’ll probably use nickel strips like most of these solutions. You solder them to the board, then weld them to the cell.
Don’t bother. Too much work.
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Why be salty about looking for different possibilities.
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I think I tried this a couple of years ago with a Kweld & iirc you’ll get pops, bangs, scorch marks, blown off strands then go back to soldering
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I’m just saying, if we’re too tired after welding a battery together to then start soldering, why bother wasting even more energy in testing and researching glues, epoxies, or aiming welding electrodes onto tiny wires?
Just glue it with whatever you’ve got around, throw it down the street to test it, and pour some rubber cement all over it to seal it up.
Easy peasy, LiFePo squeezy.
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There’s a difference between debating possible new methods & deliberately choosing a bad method.
There is probably some method in the madness & that’s where the new ideas get fleshed out?
May try something dumb with a wire and nickel now out of pure stupidity &/or stubbornness
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Sounds like a new kind of sugary energy gel, the ones you get in little pouches….which weirdly can look like puffed LiPo cells. 
“Our proprietary blend of lithium and iron helps you get through your toughest day!” “Gluten-free and only the purest available lithium salt is used to help replenish your valuable electrolytes!”
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Because it’s fun and maybe could come up with something better
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glueing*
-hummiee
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A lot of the methods we come across are for mass production. Sometimes there’s better ways for diy. I’m not saying gluing is a better way and Im asking about possibilities.
And in my situation (potted and lifepo4 and with balancers using 50milliamps max) …I think gluing is ok and no one has convinced me otherwise. I likely won’t be doing it again. In my experience soldering on balance wires takes more time n heat than I’d like.
If I had a good hydraulic press I’d be trying that to connect balance wire to nickel.
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Cold welding can work but there is a lot of prep that needs to be done (removing all oxides for example) and the pressures are enormous…maybe a couple hundred times more than what a standard hydraulic press can deliver IIRC.
You need to essentially convince the molecules of the two metals that they are all part of one piece of metal. That’s a lot of pressure. 
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With reasonable planning, it takes no time and exposes the cells to no heat. You literally can just solder them on before welding if you’re worried about exposing the cells to heat. I always just pretin and then solder them on while working, but for the main battery leads I’ve presoldered because those actually take some heat since they’re larger. The way I’ve soldered balance leads on I can literally keep my finger on the nickel above the nearest cell the whole time and I’m a noob at making batteries. With the wire and nickel tinned it literally takes a fraction of a second with the iron to add the balance wire.
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Sorry, missed this earlier…
There’s no metallic lithium in the rechargeable “secondary” lithium-ion cells we use. There’s only metallic lithium in “primary” non-rechargeable lithium-metal cells and a few lithium-ion cells (that we don’t use) that have lithium metal anodes (negative parts).
Opening one of the cells we use and dropping it into water will only result in contaminated water. There is no thermal reaction.
The gases from any lithium cell in thermal runaway are incredibly toxic though.
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Have you ever used one of our PCB battery kits? No balance leads to solder
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I did not say anything about cells being contacted.
Looking at it a second time it does appear to be the standard holder and PCB has slits that accept the clip
Just surprised I had not come across that method of usign them. Most I have seen put foam adhesive + tape the BMS on.
Or I could sell u mine. I have like 30 of those I had made. Single pcb w balance traces integrated into it. 10$ each.
U can see I don’t like to solder and spot welded onto the pcb
Battery PCBs are too much work.
Just glue it together.
PCBs, soldering, that’s all for production factories. For DIY, all you need is some good ol’ gloo, a setup for pouring and curing urethane (60A will do), and a hydraulic press to assemble the Energizer Lithium Primaries (basically the same as the P42A, but cheaper).
Just don’t get the lithium wet though.
Or feed it after midnight.
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I heard if you feed p26a after midnight that they turn into p45b
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ignoring the advice if many many respected battery builders isn’t what i would call “not convincing”
but you do you
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just launch it into space!
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