The battery builders club

That is not the same thing at all lol

It takes about 10 seconds to solder on a balance wire, or less, even. The heat doesn’t even reach the internals of the cell if you are doing it correctly.

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I guess next one I’ll solder. If there were a conducive instant glue though I think it would work fine

Doesn’t exist AFAIK. There are “conductive” epoxies (silver, nickel, or carbon loaded) but their resistance is verrrrry high compared to a soldered connection and I would hesitate to pass even balancing current through them. This is because the high resistance fools the BMS due to the voltage drop through the epoxy, extending the time needed to balance the pack.

To be fair, it you had a very good mechanical connection between the balancing lead and the nickel then I guess the epoxy could be used to just affix the lead in place. Soldering is just so easy though and is a proven method.

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i gotchu fam

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Couldnt have said it better myself.

@hummieee I’m not going to tell you that you should not be building batteries this way (though I dont think you should) and I’m not going to tell you that your batteries are 100% guaranteed to fail (since you clearly demonstrate “it works for me”). However, when you post the battery building techniques that you have (and then defend them) I am worried that someone in the future might read that and think it’s ok to follow your example for their esk8 battery. I am, therefore, going to tell anyone who is reading this in the future:

Do not follow this example. This is not a safe way to build a battery.

People come to this thread to learn how to build esk8 batteries. Esk8 batteries have a much higher safety standard than other applications because of the intense vibrations, shocks, and general abuse they are subjected to when strapped to the underside of a skateboard. Do not glue your balance wires to the cells. Always use fish paper between p-groups, and fishpaper rings around the positive cell terminals. Potting your battery is not a replacement for these other safety features.

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Also, use case on a bike is pretty different to an esk8

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I too don’t build skate batteries like this. This is for a bike. Potted. Lifepo4. And using 50miliamp balancers.

I see no voltage drop at all with the glued on balancers.
Everyone wants to be the safety police but in reality I trust this battery more than all the ion cell packs made. I’ve seen ion fires in diy stuff where they don’t even know what happened. There’s also faulty bms and no fault of the battery or the maker. These cells straight up don’t turn into flames unless u puncture them and even then not as bad as ion from what I’ve seen

If ur using lifepo4 you’re inherently safer period in my mind no matter what safety measures taken. They’re all preventative… while with lifepo4 there isn’t the risk to begin with

I shouldn’t trivialize the gas n heat.
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-017-09784-z

@Battery_Mooch have you seen those cheap cell holders snap into PCBs before? somehow never seen that.

Have you tried welding the balance wires on instead? I guess that could be difficult or introduce a failure point with loose strands + wire is copper so only Kweld with bigbatt/caps would manage this.

Wondered about this product before

I guess you could DIY this if you could get pure cemented silver(from metal refining) & mix with suitable epoxy

Yes, thanks. Verrrrry interesting concept!
I’ve been following the channel and commented on the video. :slightly_smiling_face: I haven’t seen the full setup used hard yet though so their testing will be interesting to see.

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If anyone was willing to send a syringe kit of this stuff I’d be happy to do some tests on it…electrical resistance, heating, how it fails from overcurrent, adhesion to nickel, impact and moisture resistance, etc.

I don’t think using it is a good idea (too many unknowns and soldering is an established method) but I am a firm believer in having all the data and making an educated decision on the risks involved.

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Horribly expensive & no plans to pester MG chemicals & agree solder is :crown:

Plus traditional method is fixed instantly with no curing time + less scope for what you have just worked on to come loose & short off something adjacent.

Interesting but :man_shrugging:

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I just checked…:scream::scream::scream:
Over $100! Ouch…I was thinking $30-$40 or so and thought that was a lot. :joy:

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With good reason! Niche product need a 1400% markup :joy:

6ml syringe retails here €74.08 from farnell

Silver spot price $24.15

Silver 4gm €3.45
Epoxy $1
Syringe/packaging $1

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Just mixing epoxy and metal doesn’t necessarily make something conductive. JB weld contains iron or steel but is supposed to be insulated because the tiny pieces are suspended in an insulating epoxy. Also silver is usually in my experience a not very cost-effective way to go. I was using a conductive paint for something and ended up going with nickel paint because it was like 1/10th the price of the silver stuff. For example:

vs

the downside (or upside depending on if you like huffing stuff) to the nickel one is it’s basically all toluene other than the nickel and will get you high before you realize it if you don’t use a good mask or a hood. I learned that one the disorienting way.

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Also, this is the page for all their options: Conductive Paints

They include epoxies in paints for that.

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Agreed.
I was thinking that the nickel version would be a better choice (depending on the amount of current we are sending through it).

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But I don’t see a contact. I see the cells being held only. Where’s the contacts and wonder how much current could take.

I’ll be trying today.

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