Two 12awg will do close to 120a ~ok~. Imo it should be fine for that use, just mark the outside of the pack so you remember if you repurpose it later .
The extra solder wont hurt anything as long as it’s not in your way or anything. Just doesn’t look as clean but that’s why we are here, learn and make kick ass skate batteries
Thx, longer wire helps. I’m still ending up with too much solder in the wire. I better order some more 12 awg wire😬. I’ll get it right sooner or later.
Did this today. It gets easier over time. The key is to not let the solder seep into the cable I think.
Dont let perfect be the enemy of good, if it has good flexibility left and it sits nice enough call it good. My goal is vibration resistance and solid solder joints so that pack flex doesn’t break the welds on the nickel - i try to make the copper wire as long as i can then give the pack a little flex to see if the nickel gets moved/deformed. GL
i find repetition with improving my workmanship in mind a better teacher than trying for singular perfect execution. Ymmv
That’s niiice…i’ll get my shyyt together sooner or later😁
That looks quite good already. Except for top right they look like they have good bonds, just no excess puddle around.
As hot as it will go, just max the dial.
Another good trick is to get a pair of hemostats or similar (needle-nose pliers with a rubber band on the handle will work in a pinch), and pinch the wire just above the end. That will suck some heat out of the wire and help prevent heat (and thus solder) wicking up the wire past it.
If you are planning to do lots of practice soldering, I strongly recommend you do it on a spare sheet of nickel or something rather than on these live p-groups. Every solder joint you make adds more heat into the cells, potentially degrading them.
Cool, no way I’m using my extra pre-cut strip I got from you.
I have some 1p strips… would these work?
Good enough to practice on for sure
The hardest part is for sure keeping the wires flexible. For me, it means absolutely the smallest amount of time possible on the joint. You could also use a hemostat but I don’t have any of those.
Proper application of Flux helps too, just enough to wet it.
Might be an unpopular opinion, but so far I’ve never needed flux for pretinning wires. The flux core was always more than enough. I’ve tried extra flux and all it did for me was making the whole thing more sticky. 
I always use unleaded solder. No, I don’t need that debate again, no one is going to change my mind
I use unleaded too, so yeah.
Maybe you use thicker solder then, usually just the flux in the solder isn’t enough for me, especially for flat nickel
The only time i don’t use flux is soldering to a surface like nickel, bullets or a pcb pad. Everything else either gets paste flux or no clean liquid flux if i’m tinning in the solder pot
Mhm I use standard 1mm wire, like most people I think. My iron for rough stuff gets up to 500°C though, as it’s not temperature controlled. Maybe that helps.
Wow I do it the exact other way round. 
I feel like there are a lot of placebos involved.
