Perfect, that’s the expected behavior. The third pin is a normally-closed switched contact, which means that it’s connected to the ground pin when nothing is plugged into it, and it disconnects (goes open-circuit) when you plug something in. You can safely ignore it.
It’s usually used in devices that switch between an internal battery and an external power source, so they know when they’re plugged in or not, that sort of thing.
The two holes on the B- side are the same, and the two holes for C- are the same. But C- isn’t the same as B- as they’re supposed to go to different things.
So, if the JST is how you connect to the the charging port of the board, then you need the negative wire to go to C- on the BMS and the positive wire goes directly to the pack positive.
I see you have a fuse holder is that connected to the battery positive or negative?
Battery doesn’t fit in eovans enclosure so im leaving the completed battery as is
Realized shortly after that since it isn’t going to fit inside the board that there is zero need for me to mess with the JST, as i can just charge thru my own charge port i put on lol
Fuse is on the battery positive, wired up just like my drawing that I spent almost a month on making sure it was right
Hi guy’s long time no see but back I am with question about a battery build,so long story short I am building a 2-wheeler and am looking for a battery DUH lol so I’m looking for some sort of pouch battery with at least 20Ah and that can do 50 or so amps discharge continuous.
I would go with P42A’s but I want to try something else so I want to see my options in price/performance so maybe you’ve got a trustable seller/site for those, if so I’d love to know which one you might have in mind!
The LLT meter only works if the app is open the WHOLE time the battery is in use. If you into the bms settings screen and change the value for either one of the capacity settings,save, then change it back it’ll start showing the right percentage for as long as the app is open/running/connected.
But yeah I think most of us are using LLT to just monitor p groups to see if anything is either a) charging too quickly/slowly b) discharging too quickly/ slowly. C) out of balance
SPIM08HP are probably the best bang for your buck in terms of capacity per dollar. Two 8AH cells in parallel for $8.50, plus cell holders and bolts included. Rated up to 200A each/400A for the pair.
Im building 3 packs right now with the Lishen LR2170LA (4000mah, 35A peak) and I got them for 66% the price of P42as and they’re supposed to be about 15% worse than the P42as. No logs as of yet, but can get back to you.
I’ve never used the spim08hp cells, but I bought a bunch of e-scooter packs with LG M26 18650s from batteryhookup, and they performed exactly as advertised. According to them the spim cells were only used for battery backup so they have very little mileage on them and should be close to brand-new, perforance and cycle-life wise.
If I ever get around to building an e-motorcycle like I keep dreaming about, I might very well use those.
only down side I’ve heard from other groups on facebook (e-bike/e-moto) about the Spim08hp are that they can degrade very fast, it can be either a hit or miss. maybe it was only from a bad batch or just badly built battery packs, just gave me a slight ick tbh.
that’s why I’m looking for batteries haha gathering part to make some sort of mini bike/ just need a battery and frame and possibly to go bigger down the road