Too crazed today to go into detail but…
It absolutely can, depending on the cell(s) and how the pack is used.
Not recommended, see above. I guess it depends on your tolerance for risk though. Feel like rolling the dice with your safety?
Nope. Not without possibly big safety issues.
Yep.
Just in case anyone missed it I hate esk8 batteries.
Yeah high amp packs are always difficult. 
The bike people are to be envied.
Thank you. 
Vistaprint, found their “craft paper” ones, and took a shot. Came out nicely.
Could be worse. Could be a Onewheel battery.
I know i’ve mentioned this to you before Raf, but I’m just going to go on the record and say it again…
Break the pack down and rebuild it (minus any questionable cells) as one or two parallel or charge and ride packs.
Thats what i would do.
I’ve got a quandary for y’alls and I’m hoping that I can get some expert insight even tho the vehicle in question is not an eskate but an EUC. An acquaintance was riding his wheel today offroad when it suddenly cut off after about 6mins of riding. It would not turn back on.
After an inspection, he discovered that only 1 of the 2 parallel packs that are housed on either side of the wheel and run via a parallel harness was not plugged into said harness. I can speculate as to why the wheel cut off suddenly given this fact (heat generated by excessive current pulled from the pack that was plugged in causing the firmware to shut er down).
He proceeded to plug the other battery in and was advised by a few peeps after the fact that this was unwise (incurrent etc…). No fires or otherwise untoward shit went down luckily 
Now here’s the strange part. Far as I understand, him plugging the second pack into the parallel harness should have made both batteries come to identical voltage very quickly. This did not happen. They are bother sitting closely at 91.1v and 91.3v.
Shouldn’t the Vs of both batteries be identical after both being put into a parallel circuit? Additionally, aside from potential damage to the pack that he was running before cutoff due to current demands exceeding the pack’s capability, is there any concern continuing to run the battery given that no 
occurred during the inrush when he plugged the second pack into the harness?
Thoughts? Opinions? Cheers
If it was a true direct-connection harness, no electronics “between” the packs, they should eventually come to the same voltage. Perhaps that 0.2V difference results in only a little bit of current being forced to flow.
Having said that though I also would have thought that they would equalize quickly.
How you measured the voltage, and where you measured, could affect your readings. Especially if any current is still flowing between the packs.
If neither pack got more than a bit warm and there was no damage to the connector then it’s likely that there was no real damage to either pack. But there’s just no way any of us can know the internal condition of those packs and my conclusion is just a guess.
Unfortunately your friend will have to decide himself, with no good info to go on, whether to continue to use those packs.
I’m guessing this must be a 24S pack, so the total internal resistance is probably on the order of 200-300mohm or ever higher depending on the cells.
That’s at most 1A between them, so it could take a day or two for them to fully equalize.
Do both packs run a BMS? Exceeding the current limits briefly should be fine as long as the cells didn’t overheat; it just degrades the life of the cells much faster.
The main concern about connecting two disparate voltage packs in parallel is that there is no way to regulate the current between them which can cause excessive heating that will damage batteries.
If you suspect a dead or damaged cell or group of cells, immediately stop using the battery and inspect it. Forcing current through a dead cell will cause all kinds of horrible things to happen.
There is a chance one of the cells in the group is damaged. I would inspect the parallel connections in that group and bringing back up to balance with the rest of the pack.
That would work if the board had some sort of charging regulator built in.
Obviously, the battery doesn’t “ask”, but the BMS can basically say fuck off if it’s set up to only allow a certain charge current right? I’ve never tried to charge at above the max charge current before, but it basically will just disconnect the charger ever 10 seconds or whatever your charge overcurrent delay is, then keep doing that over and over right?
My friend wanted to soup up his stock ebike, and wanted to build 2x 20s4p batteries out of P26A with my Kweld & 0.30mm nickel. He had never built a battery before. He did most of the work while I drank beer and said helpful things like “hmmmmm are you sure about that?” and “Nice gluing Michael J Fox”
He was dead set on using a Hailong G80 downtube case, so we had to design around that
Added fish paper to isolate the p-groups (not yet glued together)
I was trying to figure out a good way to cut the nickel. I decided to do it the hard way and model up the battery and draw where the nickel plates should be. Then we made wooden templates on the laser cutter.
We used those templates to arrange and fit onto the 100mm x 1,000mm roll of pure nickel
Both sides of the pack. In hindsight I don’t like how #10 turned out. I should have laid out the pack differently to make sure the nickel was 2 cells thick, but that was on the back side and we didn’t look closely enough at it
My friend wanted to do all the welding. He had some trouble finding the exact spot (no surprise after talking to his wife) to weld with the large plates of nickel covering the cells, so I laser cut our scrap fish paper as a guide
We then added battery leads and an LLT BMS.
All in all it turned out better than I expected
Yea, not great the way it’s phrased.
@chr1spe is right though if the BMS is set up at that low a current level. But having the charger cycle on/off like that is not a great way to do things. 
What gauged wire is recommended for parallel connections?
I see you’re a mentor after my own heart