What’s your battery setup and how much current are you pulling?
12awg is probably fine if its esk8. 10 if you’re a fiend.
Basically someone shoved an Allen key in the charge port
Helping fix a friend of mines board
I hoped it was fused but sadly only the main line was
Not sure who this Romanian battery builder is (name is Chris)
What do you guys think - is the bms gonna be dead?
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No way for us to know.
If the BMS was protecting the charge port, or trying to, then it might be fine. But it would have “released” the charge port after a few seconds and all would be okay now so either something physical burned out or the BMS is dead.
From your post I’m not sure what’s actually wrong though.
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What is the best way to test?
No best way, just the ways you feel are good for seeing if the BMS is working or not. Think through what the BMS was supposed to be doing (for whatever way it’s wired in) and then test if it still does that.
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I could not for the life of me find the short video @Skyart made for @Halbj613 showing him how to get a perfect solder connection on nickel when building a battery because he had cold connections on the insanity 4wd build, found it on his youtube channel finally so reposting here so for searchability and keywords:
(Want to get it perfect myself lol)
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Great video
Get all my connections perfect now
Thanks skyart
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I’ve been using a clean, large tip, 63/37 solder and high heat, and I have a decently steady hand but I still can’t get my blobs to be quite as shiny as his. I can get really close but they always seem to “cool” to a slightly duller finish than the ones I see in the video
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Is it leaded or lead-free solder?
leaded, I’m pretty sure my issue is with technique
Hmm, could just be the brand. Does it have a rosin flux core? Try tinning a thin wire and holding the iron for a while to see if its a heat issue
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it tins things no problem, I use it professionally for small electronics all the time. it’s large gauge wires I have issues with. The display on it (TS100) reads 400 degrees but I don’t have measuring tools to tell the accuracy of that at the tip.
should I look into one of those custom FW for it that lets me go above 400 degrees?
upgrade it to the opensource fw
and don’t use conical if you are using conical
i don’t usually go above 345°C on 12awg wire, and have no issues
also helps to have flux as a standalone rather than relying solely on the solder flux
I’m having trouble too. I think lack of heat is one issue, as the spots cool down really fast. But main issue is technique – I can’t figure out how to hold the wire still so that I can lift up my soldering iron. The wire really wants to jump back up / fray as soon as I’m not pushing down on it anymore 
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Pin it down with a pair of pliers while you work, let it cool before releasing the pressure on the pliers. A screwdriver also works but has less area to hold the wire with
And @poastoast I’m using the C4 tip, like a horse foot.
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i can send you a video later to ight if ya want
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i’ve had lots of success with the ts d24 or the BC2 tip
i think the C4 is more for hot cutting or burning wood
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I usually go pool of solder, tinned wired, press down on the wire with tweezers/pliers + iron, if it needs a bit more solder put down tweezers apply it then press down again with tweezers, when it looks good stop using the iron and let it cool then release tweezers
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I highly recommend getting a pair of locking tweezers and/or hemostats for this kind of stuff. Not having to keep a grip by squeezing the whole time is a big relief for the hands.
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this is the exact order of operations I do too