Every now and then my welder stops working
How so? Powers off completely or just won’t make welds?
Huh… TIL that BulkBattery and 18650BatteryStore are the same company (maybe this is common knowledge?). Order placed with BulkBattery, but the (PayPal) merchant email on file is staff@18650batterystore.com. I had to double-check I didn’t pay for the wrong cart haha.
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Wow I didn’t even notice that, but then again at the price my cells were I just rushed through checkout
Yep, kinda like a retail and wholesale storefront. But then they also have commercial accounts with even lower pricing than what’s listed on bulk battery if you’re buying loads of cells.
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Yepo. Bulk battery is their… Bulk site
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Once I used it to solder two batteries, it completely stopped working.
Display relevant information and buttons
with a 10s4p pack of 35E cells (yeah I know) how do I avoid sag? I have both sides of the VESC set to 16A battery and 60A motor but it still sags like shit. these are reclaimed cells too. (I’m thinking of dropping it to 30A motor per side)
I am riding on 15/66 pulleys with 175mm pneumies so if that’s the reason I’m totally fine with it.
I would not expect much from reclaimed 35E’s but at 4A per cell (average) I would not have expected terrible sag.
It would only take a couple of bad cells to cripple your pack though. And the cell-to-cell connections can affect sag too.
Your only options are to open the pack, find any under-performing cells, and replace them or reduce how much current you draw from the pack.
Oh, wait…is it 32A total possible from the pack, not 16A? At 8A/cell those 35E’s will sag like crazy. Stay under 5A per cell, under 3A is better.
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Congratualtions, you win the award for “Most unhelpful answer”!
Here’s your prize: 
You do realize that giving the people that are trying to help you more information, makes them more likely to be willing and able to actually help you, right?
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Doe’s anyone know how much nickle stirp I need for a 12s2p pack? It’s for a short range single drive board.
At least 5 meter roll would be advisable if you’re doing the skinny stuff
yeah i’m using 16A per side on a dual VESC. trying to keep it feeling punchy while also taking advantage of the cell’s capacity. you think if I lowered it to 10A per side (20A total) I could reduce the sag? I really don’t mind if it sags on hills but currently the battery gauge on my remote shows 0% battery for the entire last 80% of the expected range (when not applying throttle it bounces back up to the real level)
what thickness Nickle is recommended? I was going for the plated steel.
That depends very much on your pack design. More information is needed.
Depends on your welder, but usually 0.15mm is fine. 0.2 can be difficult to weld unless you have a powerful welder.
I can’t stop you, but I will say that I think that’s a stupid idea.
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Is plated steel a problem? Ah ok 0.15mm or lower got it. I’m new to building a pack so not sure what config would work best.
Plated steel is much more prone to corrosion than pure nickel strip. Steel also has a much higher resistance, so a given size of strip will heat up a lot more than the same size of nickel.
The current “gold standard” flat pack design here is to use wide nickel strips (~20-30mm width) and fold them over the cells, then use silicone wire or flat braid to do the series connections between the cell groups. You don’t need that much nickel, but the wider stuff is harder to get ahold of.
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Here are a couple of examples of packs built that way.
Photos by xsynatic and ceasium
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Oh I was just going to run a continuous 12s pack end to end then just attach a connector at the end to parallel it into a 2p. One long rod.
Plan your balance leads carefully. You want to make sure they can reach every p-group without needing to cross another wire or worse, cross sharp nickel.
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