Perfect for when it is cold.
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guys iām replacing the charge port on my evolve gt (dc jack) with a 13 A 2 pin conector i bought from apex uk. the thing is i also have to replace the port on the charger which is a cable in cable design. My question is is the outer cable the positive on the charger or the negative because I canāt measure it as the charger automatically turn off when not charging a battery.
In 99% of cases the outer part of the DC-barrel plug is negative, and the inside is positive.
I would still strongly suggest you try to measure it with a multimeter, maybe the charger produces a voltage right when you plug it into the wall?
Worst case make sure your charge port has a fuse, and if it blows ā now you know you had it the other way round 
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thank you and iāll try. i donāt think thereās a fuse so fingers crossed my room doesnāt go up in flames.
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I mean if youāre replacing the charging port, you should add a fuse. Itās kind of a must-have to protect your board from becoming a bomb ready to go off at any moment when charging in your house.
Iām pretty certain most people here have accidentally blown said fuse, and when they did, they were pretty fucking happy they had it in place. Iāve blown more than a few, lol
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This is the case for Evolveās, to my knowledge as well. However they do wire the red JST connector, between port and bms, reverse of every other company Iāve seen.
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in that case i should be fine. I donāt own any fuses so I canāt relie on that. the flipped jst doesnāt really come in to play as iām using the old jst that i desoldered from the old charging port.
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no batteries were lit on fire today
You should get fuses, then add a fuse
Batteries were lit on fire today.
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@Fosterqc, itās a clever idea but I think it has a couple of issuesā¦
- Never solder cells, they will get damaged. Maybe not a lot, but also maybe enough to instantly ruin them, we can never know.
- If he falls then that pack could easily become damaged. I guess he could drop the belt quickly but heās begging for trouble with such an exposed pack IMO.
- Fine for DIY, itās an interesting original-idea project, with the owner assuming all risk but never as a commercial product (if anyone was ever going to try that).
- Balancing a soldered pack like that would not be fun. I guess he would use alligator clips on the solder bumps? A balancing harness would have helped but I guess that would make the pack even more susceptible to damage.
- Itās a three-season pack IMO since the cells are a lot more exposed to the elements and would run a lot cooler in Winter, reducing his run time. Inside an enclosure, with the cells closer together and wrapped up, the cells would take much longer to cool off and might never do so once he starts riding.
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Big props to the cell manufacturers!
Im amazed that we dont see more fires than we do.
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Thank you for your expert comments, What are some battery would you recommend for eBike motor that is 48 V 15 A with good/excellent perf and life cycle?
Depends on the range you want, and the size / weight you have available for the battery.
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Base on Levo SL that I have demoed, 480w would yield about 25+ miles 3000 ft elev. this my usual ride.
Most ebike battery spec for approx 500 cycles.
You mean 480Wh Iām assuming. Iām not exactly sure what voltage level 48V motors are meant for, but Iāll assume 12s, which will be a bit above that. I donāt think any cell will give you that much capacity to make a 12s2p work, so youāll have to go with a 12s3p with 21700 cells, or a 12s4p with 18650 cells. At 3p and a 15A load, thatāll be 5A per cell, which most battery cells can easily provide. So you can either go with whatever is cheapest, or if you want max range, then something like a samsung 50S or Vapcell G50 will be best.
You can take a look at these charts to see what capacity you can expect form different cells at that power level:
(There might be a language barrier here though. If you actually meant that your motor is 480W, then that means nothing. Whatās important is how much power you draw per mile, so that you can figure out what total battery capacity you require. Then, based on the total capacity and the 15A you expect to draw, pick a cell that is either cheapest / provides the most capacity at that current level)
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Sorry my typo, itās 480Wh. Levo SL ebike has 320whr inside the tube plus an extended 160whr piggy on when needed.
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Thank you much for the info! Itās a big help.