If that’s the one I am thinking over it slightly overlooks the cell’s voltage ex: Cell is 4.15 but is seen as 4.2
This spot welder is starting to drive me crazy. Keeps blowing holes every 3rd weld or so. I thought it was the stock pen so I got the sunkko pen and it’s still having the same issue. I make sure to lightly sand the tips before use.
Anyone else who’s used this pen have any suggestions? How far should I be gapping these tips?
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thanks, but I’m not actually charging the cells, except the NOR test, I’m looking for magnitudes of differences not subtle 0.05V differances, as long as the measurements are consistent, like I said above… I’ll bring out the high quality tools to do a sanity check.
I checked voltages, and IR and marked them down on 50 some-odd cells in 10 minutes or so… qwick and easy with this tool…
and I’m now running a full capacity NOR test on a representative sample… I’ll run 4 cells, and If I see deviations I’m unhappy with I’ll run 4 more… etc… etc… till I get enough good cells to configure and weld up into a happi-happi joy-joy pack
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there’s a risk you rip or damage the negative tab connecting to the can
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That took me 5 minutes of staring at to understand what I was looking at.
thanks. that makes sense.
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Children of the spark, I need some straightening on my expectations of power/range for a 9” gear drive 5:1 ATB setup. Not planning on humping big hills or > 25km range, is this sane?
Note HV afaik = less A consumption ergo more distance?
I was going to go 15s8p but this fits a lot nicer and actually brings a few more cells into the pack.
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Anyone in the eu can sell me 5m of 25mm strip?
Too pricy imo, but its my last stop.
@magharees i usually order with them but they dont have the full 25mm in stock
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Quick question, where can I find a wiring diagram for the LLT bms’s?
Wondering about a few things with the balance wires that are different from my D140 that I would like ta figure out first
Didn’t they have one on their website? I haven’t wired mine yet but I feel like I saw it floating around somewhere
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I went to the product page for this bms and they don’t seem to have it attached in any of their photos, or descriptions.
I get how to wire most of it up, but I’m worried that I will make a silly mistake if say; they want the balance leads 1->14 wired a specific way that may be different than my d140. Not looking to blow another bms.
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well the red wire and the black wire prolly indicate something wouldn’t you think? and just to back check you could run a continuity check between the B- and the black wire pin…
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Yes I know they obviously represent the negative and positive of the pack. I’m wondering about the cells order. Do they lead from the negative on the right? Or is the cell order start from the left? I would assume that they start from the negative, and that It is quite obvious, but I’m here to check and pussyfoot around this bms as to not asshat it into oblivion.
It’s hard to look at someone’s kapton and fishpaper rapped battery and try to guess their wiring when you cannot find a diagram.
mine… with a different sticker… lists B0 matching up with black negative wire… and I just checked… on the one I have there is no continuity between B0 and B- hope this helps
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Your use of the word continuity is lost to me, although I think I understand.
One hand prepared sketch coming right up.
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Black is negative then 1to 12th
B- battery minus
P- output / charge if single port
C- charge
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Continuity is the presence of a complete path for current flow. A circuit is complete when its switch is closed. A digital multimeter’s Continuity Test mode can be used to test switches, fuses, electrical connections, conductors and other components. A good fuse, for example, should have continuity .
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Do you have one wired up this way? Or do you have a reference somewhere else