Why are some of the parallel groups 4p and some 5p? Or am i looking at it wrong
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I’d say they are all 9p
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So clean. Really nice bro.
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I’m guessing those are all double stacked?
your right, didn’t see that
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That wow at the end killed me.
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You don’t have to charge to full to build the pack. Could do them all at 3.7.
Cells will bleed back a bit. Then again, a 0.1V change is nothing and could be beyond the true accuracy of the voltmeter you have anyway
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Vvvvverrrrry nice looking!
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you got a link to that tape you use?
Yes those are 9p staggered with 5 cells on the bottom and 4 on top then it’s the same thing by flipped next to it
How many joules you running?
33.3 on 1.5mm nickel
Maybe 30? I found that the negative ends need a bit more power…so I’d do 30J for positive and 35J for negative maybe? It’s all close enough that it doesn’t really matter
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totally dude, I noticed this as well. I’ve started changing the J just slightly between neg and pos sides. I’m getting better–this whole art really is just practice. I’m glad I have these salvaged cells and thin nickel to practice with. Perhaps I’ll give away this 13s practice battery when I’m done…
IF IT BLOWS UP HEY IT WAS FREE 
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Turn up the current untill you see heat marks, then dial it a bit back more heat is better then less when welding
Haha, I have a 6s3p of fake 30Q cells with a broken BMS if anyone wants that too 
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from my read, that’s the creator of the kweld saying. comparing joules reading between setups isn’t very useful. because it can be inconsistent between setups. it is useful for consistency though.
it does seem like people compare joules a lot though.
It’s the easiest thing to do, but that’s why I wanted to know the set up he was using, now it’s a relative measurement
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