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This is where a thermal camera would really come in handy.
Bench testing too, would be hard to film unless it was in a top mount. or one of those laser temp gauge things.
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Just looked up your bio, you live In olympia?! I used to live in Tacoma! Love the northwest! 
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Yeah there is a pretty solid PEV presence around here which is exciting for my first year/summer of having boards to ride. Hoping to make a lot of friends, when I’m allowed to.
Maybe start making money from selling parts/batts too.
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If you’re crafty about how you pull the current out of the nickel, you can do much more. For example, a wire on the nickel between 2 cells can pull the entire nickel current from 2 cells simultaneously, effectively doubling the rating.
If you have one strip of nickel and you pull all the current out of the end past the last cell, then it will get really, really hot right before the wire
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If you arrange it well, you can use a single layer of nickel and never exceed 7.5A in the nickel, and that is only for a short stretch from the welds on cell 2 to the black wire’s solder, and from the welds on cell 4 to the red wire’s solder. Most of the nickel is carrying 5A or less. The dual 16AWG feeds a single 12AWG on the output and I use this battery for 29A maximum continuous.
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I used a piece of 1/16 rubber top and bottom as well. Then foam strips
Excuse me
I learned what a boost converter was and let’s just say my interest was peaked. According to ya it’s possible tho so I ain’t crazy. Yet
On another note I have some copper braid I am no longer needing but have… cut it, so I cannot return it through eBay. If anyone wants it just pm me and I can send pics and talk shippin it to ya. Prob like 5$.
It’s like 2 feet of it
It melts when you put it in the hot glue gun. No goo-gle required my friend
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I love this idea
This also helps by minimizing the distance the current travels over nickel to basically nothing. Though I feel bad for the cell in the middle that has to push it’s current out through the welded tab for an extra 18mm 
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interesting idea and I like it more than I thought I would, but
- if this is a flat pack for a skate, I think people have had problems with nickel bending that way. especially important in this case since the nickel has been formed over the braid then welded.
- if the braid is not soldered or tinned anywhere, a strand shakes loose it could be a problem. The welds probably only hit 1-2 strands each and there are dozens of strands in that braid.
- I would worry about moisture getting trapped in the sandwich.
Question: why not just solder it like everyone else
something like this to take advantage of the point @b264 just raised above to “double the rating” of the nickel. red crayon marks are your braid
Sorry man, your fault for posting here. I would never be brave enough to show my frankenstien experiments 
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I hear you, I have done this before on another pack, and its performing very well, but I guess only time will tell. This pack is going into an ultra stiff integrated deck. Not very worried about flexing, more the vibrations
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If you had 6 cells, you could use 3 pieces of smaller wire
You make soldering look easy
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@skyart thanks for the documentation awesome
also was wondering if maybe someone in the US has a 12s bms they can send to @skyart to attach and that way my aweful soldering skills dont have to be implemented on this pack
i will obviously pay the price of the bms
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First time doing this. Had a problem with the 10s3p in my board yesterday. Lost the series connections across this fold mid pack on the negative terminals. Repairing today, charging lipos now.
Pack is built with single 0.15x8 layer with x3 0.15x8 per series connection. (A folded tab for each cell). Before i welder and seal this back up, This sufficient for 60amp total discharge? It’s seems like it’s at the limit as far as nickel goes.
Yes, I see the square corners. No I’m not completely tearing this apart to rebuild the whole thing.
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How bad is it to have silicone in the vents of the cells?
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What are rainy days and pandemic lockdowns for? Experimenting! That’s right. Playing around with some ideas I’ve had floating around up there for a while now. 12s4p stagger stack build with 4 rows of 3s. Inside series connections will be made with nickel/copper sandwich. Outside series connections will likely be made with multistrand 14awg.
Here’s a little peak at the inside. What I did was put a base layer down of 0.2mm thick nickel. Topped with .15 copper and then again with 0.15 nickel on top of the copper. Welds were made from outside the 0.15 nickel penetrating into the copper and nickel underneath it. Kweld at 45-50J. This is by no means a honed method and purely experimental. Welds seem to be strong though so I’m moving forward. Just wanted to share
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I really like it but the sharp corners are making my eyes bleed 
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