As long as it’s on the same potential it does not matter. It would just be confusing imo.
So the bluetooth reciever that came with my bms does not have the correct connector…trying to figure out what the name/type of the connector is pictured
Oh they have done that to me once as well. Luckily i had spares laying around.
Someone named the new balance connector here the other day, i assume it is the same type, just with a bigger pitch
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Its this one… the temperature sensors have the correct one…thinking about not using the temp sensors and using their harness for bluetooth…i understand the bms can run without temp sensors but needs to be programmed to
Looks a lot like this
This forum post led me to it:
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Yes the first connector looks to be an XLR. The good ones are rated to 15 amps but there are plenty of cheaper knock offs that will only do about half of thay current.
Second connector is a 2 pin GX12. This is rated fir 7 amps and again, is dependent on whether it’s an OEM or not. I suspect u could get up to 10 amps out of this connector but that would need to be confirmed with testing. I had a 5 amp charger w this connector and it didn’t even get warm.
Re switching your 10 amp charger to a different connector, it shouldn’t be too complex. Just figure out how your XLR is wired with a mutlimeter, cut the connector off and solder on a female GX12. Triple check polarity before connecting to your battery and make sure your charge port is fused.
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i saw someone suggest using multiple pins of a 4 or 6 pin gx12 to get more current through.
Well, heres a 2 pin connector that looks identical to the OPs and it’s rated for 10amps. I think @haven could get away w 10 amps without trouble.
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Is it possible to do all necessary soldering (other than balance leads) on a battery before welding on the nickel? I’ve been thinking about this but I’m not sure if it would be too much of a hassle to justify attempting in practice.
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Pretty much everything you said is spot on.
I use the M50LT at 12S10P where it really shines,
but for any configuration below 10P I would choose a different cell.
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Yup. I use the M50LT in a 14S7P config in my eFoil. I draw about 18A continuous and 70A peak from the pack. It’s a phenomenal cell for this use case. The pack temp is about 30-40 C after a long ride, which is perfectly acceptable in my opinion.
The cell top contact is a bit weak in this cell. Don’t apply excessive pressure on it when welding. The nickel also needs to be pre-formed with recesses for the top contacts, but that actually helps nicely with welding alignment so it’s worth it.
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How did you dig that in the nikel?
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The Reason why I want to use LG was because of the excellent price to capacity ratio.
But I get it needs to be more paralleled. 
Capacity is only one spec on a whole spec sheet full of info, and it’s not nearly as important as folks seem to think. You gotta read the whole sheet and understand all the specs in order to pick a good cell.
I really encourage you to check out that article I linked above. You might learn something 
Hey yall, time for some real talk.
I dont post as much as I used to. There’s lots of reasons, but a big one is that I am not learning as much from this forum as I used to. That’s not because this place is not useful! There’s still a huge wealth of info here that anyone with sense and eyeballs can and should consume.
The reason I’m not learning so much from here anymore is because I have already consumed most of what’s here. Therefore, to continue my ever-growing hunger for knowledge, I have to turn to sources that are more info-dense, curated, researched, etc.
My favorite place to learn about batteries and battery building lately has been from @Battery_Mooch’s Patreon.
John delivers a constant stream of top-notch battery testing data, battery articles, discussions of use/best practices, news, reviews, etc. etc. etc. It has quickly become like a “battery nerd’s mailing list” for me, and it’s one of the main ways I am keeping myself engaged with my battery hobby (and, now, career). I have learned so much in the (relatively) short time I have been subscribed, and I know that as long as John is able to keep it up, I will keep learning more.
That’s why I’m here to ask for your help. Yes, you. John spends an inordinate amount of his own time doing the critical tests that gives us data about the cells we all use, allowing us to build better, safer, and more powerful packs. He spends time putting together his Patreon feed for us battery nerds who want to further our knowledge. He spends time engaging with this community (and several others) directly, answering all of our stupid questions and helping to guide us away from sticking the metaphorical fork in the metaphorical outlet, for free!
All that time costs money, and so I am asking you to help give back.
If you feel like you have got anything from John’s contributions to battery hobbyists, or if you simply want a subscription to a curated feed of juicy battery knowledge, please consider subscribing to his Patreon. Even a few bucks a month helps. Hell, even a few bucks once helps. John definitely deserves it, and helping him to keep doing this work that he loves is also helping yourself and every other battery hobbyist.
Thanks for coming to my TED talk.
John, if you want me to take this down please dont hesitate to let me know. I just wanted to do my part in keeping my favorite battery nerd’s mailing list alive and well 
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The chicken is right. Give him your money. Now. 
(there’s a lot of really cool stuff there, its seriously worth your money)
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Yuuup happy to vouch for the value of the patreon too, mooch has an ungodly amount of test data and regularly asks there for input on what to collect and how it’s presented
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I’ve been a long time Patron of the Battery Gooch, and can confirm that the wealth of knowledge there is a step above.
And even if it weren’t (which it absolutely is), people should be contributing to that work because it’s the right thing to do.
So many companies in the PEV space directly benefit from, and commercialize, the testing and research that Mooch does. And it’s fair for his expertise to be not only compensated, but supported.
For all of our benefit, and because it’s right.
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I used 3D printed plates with 0.75mm deep indents, and formed the nickel into the indents with the end of a sharpie. It requires a bit of force but it’s definitely doable at least with annealed 0.2mm nickel.
The 50mm wide stuff in the picture is not annealed. It is quite springy, and I could not form indents in it. So I used it only for the negative ends.
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