inch or mm?
Uhh, whatever you measure in, I usually use mm though
Going across the nickel is a lower resistance/inductance connection than going through the wires so, in theory, you can get some micro-arcing as the nickel connection points touch and come apart over and over again. Whether the low-milliohm range of resistances and tiny inductances we’re dealing with here actually have any practical effect is an entirely different matter. 
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hello i have contact to alibaba fore battery wath are you think about this campony ?
100pcs molicel 21700 p42a fore 330 Doller pay withe paypal…
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Did you use a kweld for that? What settings? I going to try this method too, as it has gotten pretty popular on other forums. 
I’d suggest buying from an authorised reseller. I know several people who have bought from other sellers and had bad luck.
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The poor man pays twice
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Other forums yep. I understand some of the better builders in here would not recommend it for eskate so I’ll echo that sentiment here too. I guess this community needs more long term reports before trusting it. Fair enough.
That said if you’d like to throw their cautions to the wind…
0.2mm copper
0.1mm nickel plated steel
kWeld
Turnigy graphene panther 3S2P (two packs) getting ~1500A per weld
Positive terminal 110J
Negative terminal 120J
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Doing a @Heathlewis Signature model build. 20s6p in a Flux AT2. It’s a ballsy build, I give him a ton of credit. Split P groups, but nothing too outlandish.
There are going to be a pair of Little FOCers in the rear, so I’m putting a 24s ENNOID up front. Spicy.
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Doing my first 18s build and just got my BMS, a little confused by the double balance wire plugs, any tutorial or diagram to follow? Not sure where this mess of wires are supposed to go
Dang looking good - here’s to wishing I had gotten to finish the 20s8p lacroix
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Top speed, I imagine.
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Why though? 
It’s the same construction method that pure nickel builds utilise.
Also thanks!
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Steel has a quarter of the conductivity of nickel, the copper coating is wafer thin so it doesn’t actually conduct anything, it just makes it easy to solder to
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Where did you get copper coating from? I think you’d use solid copper for this. The steel is just there to get the copper hot enough for welding.
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I thought that’s what we were talking about? If it’s pure copper it should be fine but it corrodes so it will look gross and it work hardens more than nickel
Pure steel is a bitch to solder to
Wouldn’t it just corrode if it got wet? I’ve seen many professionally made battery packs which have laser welded copper connections.
It’s nickel plated steel though. Also I think soldering to it wouldn’t be necessary, as you’d only weld on small taps to get the welds to stick. Soldering would be on the pure copper.
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Yeah it would likely corrode in time but i’m not sure if it would even matter as it’s only purpose is to allow the weld to take place.
I think there is definitely space for copper in esk8, especially if it has a noticeable performance advantage.
I think most won’t need it, but I feel that high performance boards could definitely benefit.
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