If it’s arcing the screw is loose and you need to tighten it, assuming there is nothing in the way inside the cell holder. Are those nese modules? I have seen now several instances where these things have a poor connection to the cells inside.
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Yes NESE cells. I’ve seen the arcing problem as well.
When applying a load to the battery should the amp draw be uniform across all P groups?
Yes.
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I got a smart bms from llt and it has to wires for a power switch. Do I have to wire a switch in or can I just ignore those wires? Thanks
Apparently the proper procedure is to solder them shorted together
I also think you can enable or disable it in the app but can’t remember.
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Where did you learn this?
I just leave them unplugged.
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First go at spot welding, practice welds all rip holes in nickel and leave behind little nubs, seems like strong welds, cant pull them off by hand only with a tool in hand, but would like some input on the visuals from the vets, thanks
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Looking pretty good dude, only suggestion would be to try center that nickel over the two groups a little better, getting awfully close to the group on the left
I like how you drew lines at the boundary of the weldable area, overall looks like good welding, just don’t let the edge of the nickel touch the insulation of the next group over and you’ll be fine
Try using the back of a sharpie (blunt, plastic thingy) to dent the nickel around the positive end, which will reveal the weldable area without the need for a stencil.
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Someone in the battery group said that - I usually left them unplugged on the only batt that had them and it was fine
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Got my battery all hooked up finally and still trying to figure out how to connect Android app to the llt bms. Is the Bluetooth module supposed to light up? I left the switch wires unplugged and can’t detect the bms in app.
Is there some kind of specific procedure here? Thanks
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Edit**
Nevermind, the app is working now. I downloaded both the llt and xiaoxiang apps and both detect bms now. The llt seems a bit nicer of an interface. Which parameters should be adjusted in here?
Overvoltage should be adjusted down to 4.2 imo. Also, I like my balancing precision to be to 0.02v personally. Default is 0.03 which is alright too. Do you plan on charging to the full 50.4 volts? If not, you can also change the parameters to stop at 4.15v per cell or overall pack voltage of 49.8.
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Looks like the balancing precision was default .015v and single full voltage setting is 4.15 volts. The balancing cut on is set to 3.9 volts. That seems to be all good yeah?
This is all good
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That balancing delta is fine. The only setting I’d potentially change is when balancing starts. 3.9v is a bit low and might affect the charging cycle. Try it out tho and if u get anything funny happening bump it up to 4.1 or maybe 4.0 if ur not taking it to full charge.
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Battery people and data detectives, mind looking at this metr data, specifically the battery voltage as it relates to current draw?
Given the following basic specs, what kind of C rating do you think this battery pack has?
-12s1p, 12-15ah
-2wd, cool outside, rider and board weigh in at 205lbs.
-new cells, stored at 3.83v for 3 months.
-battery to esc lead length is about 10in. 10ga wire, as150 connectors.
-battery was not warm to touch at end of run.
I know C ratings are bunk, but I feel like these were off by AN ORDER OF MAGNITUDE.
Do those voltage drops look unreasonable? I need a sanity check before I poke at the manufacturer.
What cells are those? Looks pretty good for a 1p.