Just comparing your packs to the tutorial pictures you posted, there is a lot of p group isolating fish paper that you didn’t use. Look at how much extra there is in the tutorial on the center and lower groups.
Ive used similar foam weather stripping rubber and had two different types come from the same order. You want the hard stuff not the soft stuff for that imho. Just keeps everything in place better and doesn’t compress as much when you shrink it up. BUT it doesn’t replace the fish paper. Fish paper is cheap and good at its job, go to town with it.
The design you have is inherently flawed and although as Al pointed pointed out, the pack is salvageable, you should really have run your design by everyone for feedback as I don’t think you have the requisite knowledge based on what I’m seeing above. Reorientating your cells to a "north-south’ arrangement and going w the ‘Snake’ style series connections would be much safer.
And I have to also say that considering I sold you the kweld with which ur working, I feel compelled to tell u that when you bring a flawed plan here and get feedback that’s there’s problems, it’s VITAL that u listen to that feedback. You can and will start a fire with what you’re doing here. Liion battery building is not a joke and treating it so flippantly is going to get someone hurt and is going to fuck up the hobby in the GTA bro and maybe in Canada as a whole. Look at what’s going on around the world. They just put forward a plan to ban storing EVs indoors in NYC.
If you’re part of this community, you have a responsibility to take care of it. Do better, homie.
This is the way. Don’t take common good’s and others criticism harshly, it’s all just to try and save you from making our same mistakes again. Making your own batteries is super rewarding but inherently risky. Not just for eskate but LIon batteries can easily be restricted to sales to businesses only or something worse and kill the whole hobby.
The packs we make are huge, high voltage, and subjected to brutal punishment and abuse. Failure is inevitable but the mode of failure can be somewhat focused to less news worthy means if we share our missteps and collaborate.
Also the sudo standards that have become prevalent on this forum seem easier imo to build than a lot of the stuff i was trying before I started lurking here
Why not do it this way? Then you don’t have to worry about insulating the nickel connections, and you don’t have to rearrange anything, just resolder a few series wires.
Are cylindrical cells prone to liking being vertical or horozontal more than the other? Going to make a brick pack with a custom enclosure and trying to plan it out smartly. Just wanted to know if one way or the other was going to make any difference. Cant seem to really find much online about the topic.
The copper is 0.2mm thick, picked it up from Aliexpress here:
Agreed, 4 wires is probably overkill. 3 (16AWG) would have been roughly equivalent to the usual 2x14AWG used by most in here, I think. Added a fourth for balance or OCD perhaps
in almost all 12s4p packs i see, the cells groups are touching, how is this not an issue? is the only insulation coming from the fishpaper rings? Should extra fishpaper be added between all the p groups?
You don’t need any fishpaper or insulation between those spots. They’re electrically connected. You can see the wires soldered onto the joints right over them haha
I add a piece of fish paper like you see ont hat pack there in between the groups anyways…why? Lol no clue, just feel better knowing electricity is going though the wires and not jumping across the nickel
