this is the exact order of operations I do too
I do have hemostats + pliers but I think that would just make the connection even more flat and frayed 
Not to mention ruining the nickel
And my process was exactly what Artem showed in the video / Anubis is describing I believe.
Maybe I should be pressing down with the pliers on the insulation portion of the wire?
Lack of flux is what makes it non shiny. Either it comes from the solder or you add it separately. So for example if I tin a wire and make a blob to then join them together. A lot of the flux has already been evaporated at the tinning process so I often dip the wire in flux before I join them together.
The solder makes a big difference.
I im using mg chemicals stuff 63/37 with rosin flux. their thickest gauge.
I also got a tub of their rosin flux.
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-When soldering thick 12 gauge wires I like to dip the wires in flux before tinning them. that makes the tinning process faster, less solder creeps upp the wire and you can hold the wires with your hands.
-Then I tin the nickel/make the blob (no extra flux added)
-Then I dip the tinned wire in flux
-Then I join them together with just the iron. again no plier needed.
for my batteries I batch cut and tin my wires but then I wear thin gloves. still faster and better control than pliers in my opinon .
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That’s what I do: Get a grip on the wire right before the insulation ends, and apply pressure from that point.
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I use a box cutter/utility knife/snap knife (people call it different things) to hold down my solder joints while they cool. Works a treat. The super thin blade allows me to apply exactly the right amount of pressure exactly where I need it, so I can hold the wire in place without smushing it flat or sinking so much heat that I get a cold joint.
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Modular BMS ftw. I did a thing:
I leave this strapped to my charger to charge my two different 12S NESE packs.
Question-
Anyone know if the capacity setting in the LLT BMS app does anything other than display % remaining?
Afaik, that’s the only setting I’d change between my 12s2p and 12s3p packs, and it would be great to not have to change anything at all to charge
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The capacity setting doesn’t do jack in that BMS lol
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Depends on whether you are using the iOS app or the Android app.
Android app:
Capacity meter is counting the mAh charged and discharged through the BMS, and comparing that to the capacity of the battery that you tell it. If you are not discharging through the BMS, then this number is going to quickly rise to 100% and stay there forever, since no mAh are going “out” of the pack (as far as the BMS can tell).
iOS app:
You can define several points of a discharge curve based on measured voltage, and it will use that to determine what % it displays. Much simpler, a bit less accurate, but it functions whether you bypass the BMS or not, since it’s based on pack voltage.
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I don’t know man, I’ve never gotten it to function
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rip temp sensors
I never really know what to do with them. They just end up sitting over terminals or something on my packs
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Just opened up a VX2 to clean it and because I like taking things apart, and noticed this divet in the battery, seems to be caused by a sharp plastic nub on the other side of the case that looks like a manufacturing artifact from injection molding.
Beware, this could have punctured the battery making the remote a fireball in your hand or pocket.
Check your remotes for this kind of thing, kind or crazy this can even be sold legally.
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you’d be surprised how many things in esk8 are sold and are dangerous
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after the injuries I’ve sustained over the passed 3.5 years and the things I’ve opened up I’m not really surprised anymore, I’m moving towards just disappointment.
Not sure if this is the right place but i wanted to borrow a spot welder from someone for a couple weeks in June. Anyone willing to toss one my way? Id rather not spend the money on a malectrics unit if i dont have to.
This is the best solution I have seen so far for cutting nickel in weird shapes, I’m jelous.
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Where are you located? We have a kweld lending thread.