The battery builders club

I did xD

realized now it also works the other way around, think i overshot a step when planing it out last time

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I always draw 2 wiring diagrams per battery bc its easy for my brain to understand. 1) All the main serial connections, terminals etc… 2) bms wiring. Makes your life a lot easier

my brain often makes thinking errors and builds upon this, so it actually doesn’t help me because i think it’s right like i drew it

It only works the way you drew it if the numbers of the cells work the opposite way. This is how it should look

B- (- cell 1 +) (- cell 2 +) (- cell 3 +) … etc … (- cell 12 +) B+

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but this is now an S group, right?
aka you connect cell 1 to 12 and connect 3 of those in parallel?

Your drawing above was also in series, you just had your numbers backwards

so the difference is that you made it
next P group[+ cell 1 -][+ cell 2 -][+ cell 3 -]previous P group
?

But I would also get a 3S pack unless I connect 4 of those in serial

Your numbers are still backwards :sweat_smile:

What does it matter that I numbered my cells from the other end?

Because if you’re joining cells in series, you join the positive of cell 1 to the negative of cell 2. The way you have it labelled doesnt make sense

Every bms i have ever used counts the series groups starting from the negative end, so thats just what makes sense to me

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It’d probably make a big difference if you confused the numbers and plugged a bms in backwards :sweat_smile:

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You’d prob do better drawing a more traditional wiring diagram. It’s visually easier to understand… for me at least. This is what I drew up for my last 2 flat packs:


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I plan on using 50mm wide nickel to weld across a double stack 21700, what is the strategy for welding the positive terminal? Its hard to see it when its under the sheet of nickel, and the last thing I want is to accidentally short the cell. I though about 3d printing a jig but it seems like there should be a better way.

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Use a blunt and soft object to push the nickel down. It’ll make an outline of the positive terminal. Or stick insulator rings on the nickel so you can tell where the center is

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This is my first time spot welding so bear with me, a good weld when pulled off of the cell will leave a little bit of nickel behind correct? It should not be a clean removal?

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correct

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Maybe this already exists somewhere and I just can’t easily find it, but I feel like maybe we should have a better description and/or references for what a good pull test is and what you expect for different thicknesses. I didn’t realize for quite a while that you probably won’t get the long shards ripping out with 0.2 mm nickel even on a “good” pull test, but recently I read someone saying that. In retrospect, I probably overcooked my welds on my first battery I recently built a bit because of this. They still took about as much to get off as some that were less hot, but because doing them hotter left more material behind and I thought I was looking for big shards to rip off I ended up going with higher than optimal weld time I think. I realize now it’s probably more about the force it takes than how much is left behind even though at least some should be left behind. I think I had also read/seen something before that said you should get big shards that pull off with the cell. It may be better to emphasize that they should be very hard to pull off assuming I’m correct that is the more important factor. A lot of people seem to concentrate on nickel being left behind.

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I find this as well with 0.2mm nickel, I never get shards left behind even on settings that blow through the strip, but I can get it to a point where I need to pry off the nickel with pliers to get it off and even leave holes in it, but no shards left on the cell, just dots.

The point behind the “make sure you leave nickel shards” advice is that your welds should be as strong or stronger than the sheet metal you are welding. You can have a weld which is strong, but if the weld is failing before the sheet metal, then your weld has room to improve.

You may be welding too hot, and/or your probes are not sharp enough, and/or your technique is off.

At the end of the day, you are the only person in charge of deciding what’s “good enough” for you. But when folks tell you what the best practices are, in my opinion it’s best to keep learning until you can achieve them.


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This is often not discussed but is quite important. When cleaning your tips, makes sure to be mindful of this. Blunted tips really affect the strength of the welds.

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