We have no idea. That’s why we must buy from known, trusted sources like Digi-Key, Mouser, Techni-Tool, Allied Electronics.
If purchased from Amazon, ebay, etc., then at least test the tape with a soldering iron to make sure it does not melt. It still might not be Kapton (if that is what you wanted) but at least it’s a high temp plastic.
I’ve been buying locally from a 3d printer shop and its all been good. Everything i’ve gotten from ali has been fake.
Okay, i’ll try mine with a solder tomorrow. But if it melts… RIP my packs 
Lol i wouldn’t be too stressed. The fake stuff is still good to a certain extent. And if your pack was getting hot enough for it to melt the tape, there were bigger issues anyway 
You can always look for the price, as a rough metric. If its considerably cheaper than this ↓
…it’s probably fake. These are some of the guys that make the original Kapton®.
Here’s a list of trusted manufacturers for Kapton. If you buy from one of these, you’ll get 100% the real stuff.
Is there any other sources for 50mm wide nickel strip in EU exept nkon?
It’s out of stock and an order from China may take up to two months… 
True!
They stock some 200mm wide but I thought it was a typo since they don’t have any 20mm…
Maybe @Anubis can verify, just to be clear…
200mm wife is sheets that you can cut out
I don’t think it’s a typo but I may be wrong
I really don’t wanna have to desolder group 11 again to charge it.
I took a mini torch to my kapton take and it caught fire does it mean its fake?
Genuine Kapton is “self-extinguishing”. It will char (turn black) in a flame but it should not melt or catch fire itself. As soon as you remove the torch there should be no flame at the tape.
If there is flame then it is not Kapton. It might still be another high temp plastic but it might be junk too.
torches go over 1000C… use a soldering iron and see if it melts.
You don’t have to desolder it to charge it. Just run jumpers from that one group to a charger.
Oh now I find out. I probably aged the cells with all the heat from soldering and desoldering it more than I had to.
How bad would it be to connect the battery strait to the vesc( with an xt90-s) to test the board while I wait to make my loop key
Perfectly fine
OK great, hopeful I will be done with my battery this weekend and then I can do some test runs.
Has anyone had any luck using pvc shrink wrap on a flexible pack?
It works, but it’ll severely reduce the flex of the pack, and any flex that is forced will have the potential to split the wrap. Polyolefin is the better (but far more expensive and not as easy to find) choice.
is there any thing to make the pvc more flexible
