Eh I’ll risk 13S as I’m using mechanical brakes.
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Okay thanks will do then. Oh yeah I forgot to mention the application - it’ll be powering dual 6384 170kv motors with 6.5-8” pneumatics
Starting out with the 4.6 ratio on BN AT gear drives. I’m hoping it will be torquey enough (especially with the 6.5’s) for my 100kg brother to bomb up hills
Actually maybe I won’t use a vesc as I want pedal assist… Idk my bike is in the early stages of planning.
Vesc can do pedal assist but it’s a pain in the ass I heard
Yes, you absolutely need to use copper wire or braid for the series connections, not just for current, but also for flexibility.
Also, don’t have the series connections start right at the end of one p-group and end at the next cell over like you are showing in that picture. That will result in uneven current through the nickel because some cells in the p-group are way farther from the series connection than others, and this will result in hot spots.
Check out the gallery in ZachTetra’s vendor thread here for some examples of how to do series connections right.
Here is another excellent example from will_manners as well.
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Got it. This helps, thanks!
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Anything we can do to help make a first build go right the first time. 
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C- is charge negative. P- is usually the load negative. And B- would go to the negative terminal on the battery.
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If I get this, I don’t have to buy flux separately? Can I use it for soldering everything, like on my nickel tabs for series connections and joining wires to xt90 connectors?
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Yes it’s good solder I recommend (good for me, was able to solder pretty easily on nickel strip without even sanding or doing any prep to it) get the 500g one tho bc the 100g will run out pretty fast if you have a lot of soldering to do
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Thanks! Also do I solder my series wires onto the nickel tabs first then spot weld to the cell? Or I can spot weld all then solder? I assume the first so that heat doesn’t dissipate to the cell, even though the part I’m soldering is the flap on top of the cell, not near the end of the cell.
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First option would be best in my opinion especially since you have such big P groups aka heat dissipation
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B- goes to your battery, C- goes to your charger and/or load, P- is un-used. Even their official wiring diagrams say that lol. No clue why its there.
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definitely good solder i use it all the time for all sort of soldering work i have to do.
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Using flux paste as well as rosin core solder is the way. Soldering without flux paste is like wiping your arse with sandpaper… it’ll work, but its painful.
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Man questions like these should be considered spam in 2021
We really need to make a “how to build a battery without your house burning down thread” and make it as a must see before posting on this thread 
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Agreed. Just make a big gallery of solid battery builds of all shapes and types with some tips and tricks (flux paste, good soldering iron, corner chompers, neutral silicone, yadda yadda) and plonk down a link to it whenever someone asks.
It should also probably be pinned up with the “Is DIY right for you?” thread.
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