What’s that app?
Onewheel Community Edition, or OWCE.
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Oh I though it was a Esk8 related. 
It’s float life stuff. Don’t understand it.
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It’s just fun. I enjoy it.
On an eskate related note, I’m doing this battery for someone who’s printing most of his build parts, and following the design of this project:
It’s pretty cool, although I’m skeptical of the strength of the printed motor mounts that the creator mentions.
Either way, it was originally a 10s4p and the space in the front section held a large discharge BMS and circuitry for lights. This person isn’t doing those things so the extra space helped to make it a 12s4p layout.
Very interesting shape in the middle sections.
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That depends entirely on the layout of the pack and how you set up the connections.
The thinner the strip is, the wider it has to be for the same cross section area, which is the real determining factor of “will X strip be enough for Y current?”
For example, people doing mountainboards often use a brick configuration (cells vertical) because height isn’t an issue because the battery is usually top-mounted in a box. For a brick config, you can use REALLY wide nickel, basically the width off the whole pack, like so:
This gives a HUGE cross section of nickel, because the current is not running along the length of the strip, but across it.
For a more conventional (flat) pack layout, you either need much thicker nickel, or more layers, (both ways are less-than-ideal), or just use something much more conductive than nickel for the thinner series connections, e.g. silicone wire. Check out ZackTetra’s awesome vendor thread for a great photo gallery of super clean and nicely laid out packs for some ideas.
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Rip, was hoping I could do a 12s5p and dual Xeniths for a 4wd. These are 60 cells on the enclosure. Guess I’ll have to make do with 12s4p
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Double stack?
Trying not to, since i already have the enclosure. I am messing around with arrangements, reporting back in a bit haha
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Maybe zirconium copper C15000 or another alloy would be better for connecting cells as it has a bit less conductivity than copper but has over double the fatigue strength and better for a vibrating and flexing board
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what if you did them all lengthways? any chance you could get enough space
maybe then use the mini makerx
I was planning on a pack layout similar to this Vruzend build (except with welds, obviously.) 
Two 5s2p packs, which are then connected together in a flat layout.
Plop the Xeniths in there, measure how much space is left for battery, throw those measurements in this bad boy, and it will tell you how many cells you can fit:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/smaller-rectangles-within-larger-rectangle-d_2111.html
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You know what, after playing tetris with these cells for an hour I got it. Dual xeniths and a 12s daly BMS beside it seems possible on this configuration
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Dude that thing is going to be an absolute beast! Are you doing 4WD? Or super-single 2WD?
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4WD
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I know the feeling to well
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Been lurking in this thread a while and see ppl freak pretty much when someone makes a pack with no fuse in the charge chain so to save myself from being flamed figuratively and literally. Im thinking about buying this seemly solid inline fuse holder to solder to the positive charge wire of my charge cable for my build and i wanted to hear thoughts.
Also just to add a bit of info im planning on charging this 12s6p of p42a at 5 or 6amps havent decided yet which to choose.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9PL4R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_E65GXB2HTDNVRBEAFC1W
I would recommend mini blade fuses. That is going to be rather large in comparison to everything else. And 50% headroom on the amperage. A short will pop it. But most of these fuses are rated for 12V not 40-50v
Sounds like a good plan
If your budget can afford it you could probably get a more powerful charger
I use the fuses from @b264
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