I bought it from banggood (usa) for $24. Should be here in a week. Let’s see how useful it is. “Honey” tried some coupons and got me a couple of bucks discount.
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Looks very promising! But like @bwahl602 said it most likely ain’t got the thermal design to withstand many consecutive welds.
Ah yesss! I’ve seen so many quality packs made by gents here and most all of them use the thicc and wide nickel to wrap around P groups. Thank you for your amazing battery builds! 
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this guy seems unaware that aluminum won’t weld. He also seems to think that blowing through the nickel at way high temps is a “good weld.” 
@mishrasubhransu let us know how this is though, I’m curious.
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How do they weld/solder to the aluminum tab BTW?
I think you can solder to it, though thats not ideal because that transfers a lot of heat to the cell. A better method is a mechanical connection of some kind. @iamasalmon Gabe do you have any pictures of the connections you made for your SPIM spot welding pack?
SPIM08 3s3p. Warning: some have gotten over current errors on this setup… works great for me🤷♂️
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ye I just has som guuud ass connections or fatty cells or whatxr
3S2P chiller
With special solder/flux, or a welder specifically designed/tuned to work with aluminum.
It can be done with regular solder under mineral oil, but it’s a pain and nearly impossible to do fast enough not to put lots of heat into the cell.
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My battery doesn’t seem like it’s charging; even though I’m about 90% sure I wired things up properly.
But just to confirm, for a bypassed discharge setup, this looks correct, right?
From the bms:
c- to fuse to negative end of the charge port
Then the positive end of the charge port connects to the positive end of the battery
I’m also positive my balance wires are setup correctly (checked like 4 times 
)
**also the shrink wrap will be shrunk once I can ensure it charges I know it looks janky af. And the charge port was shrink tubed with clear ones
Every now and then a BMS is dead, I got a 12s Daly that was born eating shit
Test to see if the charge port has the right voltage, if it’s lower than the discharge leads you either have a balance lead wrong or the BMS is bad
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Like the leads of the connector from my battery to escs? The charger is reading 42.2 off the plug
You want the voltage going out to the ESC, and the voltage of the charge port, NOT the charger itself. If the BMS is bad it could have the gates stuck closed in the BMS so the charger port will read like 10v or something
I’m getting 40.6 off the connector and 42.2 off the charge port; I mean the charge port earlier as well.
I don’t see a (B-) connection.
Without it it won’t charge
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I thought it was only necessary if there wasn’t continuity between the B- balance lead and B- pad on the BMS?
If not, I’ll change it right now 
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I have always connected B-
I don’t think it can hurt. I would bet a Daly 12s BMS that that’s the problem.
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Alrighty, thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated
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Hello everyone.
I’m deciding what 18650 cells I should buy for my low-weight build. Battery config is a little bit wonky one, since I’m restricted with 100 wh limit (Airplane limit), so 10s1p is obvious chose here, due to small dimensions, and standardized voltage. So what do you think about vtc5a cell for 10s1p? 93.6 wh and 35A discharge. Kinda impressive for a tiny battery.
Well, stress on the battery is not going to be huge, since board will be geared for torque on 83mm wheels. I know, it’s not going to let me fly to the moon and back, but who really cares, If it is commuting board for 145 lbs guy?
That is exactly what Hoyt St does for their batteries, they use 3 blocks in parallel and each block is a 10s1p 25R with a discharge BMS. Using only 1 block will be rather weak though, I would suggest using 2
The other way to do this is have 2 smaller batteries in series, for example you can have 2 6s1p P42A batteries which would have much better performance if you raise the gear ratio and the ESC can handle 12s
Here is the Hoyt stuff, the charge and discharge port is the same and limited to 40A or so, that way there is no extra wires for charging
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Glad to hear that.
Yeah, I could use 2p, but additional 470g is about 8-10% of the board theoretical weight, bruh.
Typical distance while commuting to the university is 4-5 km back and forth. No reason to grab spare weight with me. But if I have to, I can grab second battery, since I’m going to make ‘em hot-swappable
Thank you for links, but I live in Russia, so shipping doubles the price. Moreover, I tend to be true DIYer, so I don’t use pre-built bms and controllers/receivers, and creating them from scratch for my application
Build thread is definitely on the way 
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