The battery builders club 2

A long time ago I chose Bak over Mollicell. That pack is still going on the Flux. It was a 12S9P

But I never thought it performed great. So on feelings alone I want to ignore your advice.

But I still appreciate it.

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For a basic build without major power draw is there any considerations related to tables cells.

It can I use nickel and my malectctrics as if I was building with P42A?

I guess I’m mainly wondering if welding to them is the same.

So the RS50 is hot stuff?

Looks like they have them

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Yep RS50 and Tenpower 50XG.

You can weld nikkel onto them but copper is more suitable for high amp use. The malectrics might get away with 0.15 copper and 0.1 steel on top, if not then 0.1 should be no problem . Ampacity wise that’s a great improvement already but I think a single 0.15 is still quite soft in the tear test, haven’t really tested it in an esk8 though. I do 0.3 copper with my big welder and get super strong welds with that

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What is the cool new welder the kids are getting?

Seems to be the AwithZ welders now, P20B P30C P60F, they look nicer than what I have but I have no experience with them personally.

I have a glitter 811H to do the copper work, I’m happy with the performance of it. Just set it to the manufacturer recommended value of 65% duty for 0.3 copper 0.1 steel sandwich and the welds are so strong that they are impossible to roll / pull off without tearing the cell open.

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I have the p20b and have welded 0.35 mm of copper, under 0.1mm stainless steel, using Nelvick’s welding flux, at near max power.

Stainless steel is the magic welding aid.

Flux reduces my ā€˜gear’ from 550 to 320- 385 using 0.2mm copper under 0.1mm stainless.

I bet your Malectrics can do 0.15mm copper if you use stainless on top and flux underneath, and the weld battery is healthy.

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I may get a high amp cell.

But I won’t necessarily chase a high amp pack.

I don’t intend to update the stock XT 60 harness.

And I don’t think I need to ask for more power than I did from the stock pack

So I intended to use 0.15 nickel.

Unless it would be much wiser to use 0.2 nickel

I don’t intend to mess with copper.

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No need for copper unless you are going high amps, th cells work great with nickel just like the p42a do. The bak45d pack i made with .2 but that’s the smallest i use not that it needed it

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Tabless cells just performs better, even in low power draw. @Pecos did a small pack for his Koi or Hummie and it gave him quite a bit more range, although I don’t remember if he was comparing them to P42a or some other cells.

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How much amperage does your onewheel pull?

This is a 50amp line chart showing the usual suspects vs the latest and greatest tabless cells.

Yeah P42a, P45b and P50b aren’t rated for 50A continuous. They start to reach their 80°C cut off temp when push around 30-35A continous.

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Not always true.

The 50S2 beats the tabless by a bit at low to moderate power levels and the 6Ah energy cells beat out all of the tabless power cells at low power levels.

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//I’ll move the post to tabless cells thread.

Hey guys,

I’m planning a 12s2p battery build for a Loaded Coyote setup I’m putting together.

If anyone has built one before, would you be willing to share some pictures of how you laid out the cells?

I’m considering a layout similar to this (minus the PCB), but I’m a bit concerned the tabs may be too small to comfortably solder 10-gauge wire for the series connections between groups.

Any insight or photos would be really appreciated.

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They sell their PCBs for pretty cheap why not use one?

Soldering the groups together has been the hardest part for me so far, and I have an even harder time soldering the main lead wires with the extra contact to the tab.

Because of that, I’m a bit concerned about how difficult soldering directly to PCB tabs might be. For this build, I made sure to pick up some thicker solder, so I’m hoping that helps things flow better and gives me a bit more confidence.

I really want to give a PCB build a try, though.

What iron do you have? A good iron makes soldering so much easier. I can highly recommend the ā€œksger t12ā€ on aliexpress, about 60$ plus 3-5$ per extra tip. Probably available on amazon too. The D52 tip is great for soldering larger stuff for battery building. Can pump it up to 480C for the toughest joints. I can do 8awg with it quite easily at 480C. Generally I use it between 380-420 depending on what I’m working on, and reserve 480 only for stuff like 8ga because the tip doesn’t like 480 long term.

That and decent leaded solder in appropriate diameter go a very long way. Plus if your solder’s flux isn’t very aggressive, then extra flux. A good iron and good solder is especially important if your technique isn’t perfect yet.

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I picked up one of the blue-and-yellow Hakko irons and have slowly learned to rely on thicker tips as I’ve built a few packs.

I was going through one of the soldering tutorials on the site the other day and realized the solder diameter I was using was probably a bigger part of my problem than I originally thought. I’ve been using Kester 0.031", and this time I’m switching to 0.050" since I was struggling to get enough solder pooled up.

Really appreciate the advice! I’ll definitely try using more flux this time around, too.

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In my experience you don’t need or want a lot of flux, especially if you are using flux core solder. The heat in the tip is the key. I use a cheap AF 80w iron with a fat tip and it does up to 8awg pretty comfortably

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